Monday, July 11, 2022

A Man's Home is his Castle

 Today we bid farewell to County Tyrone and headed towards County Sligo, but not before enjoying one last amazing breakfast at the Mellon Country Inn Hotel.  We had a delightful stay there, and the only issue that I had was the hair dryer, which required one to constantly push on the "on" button while drying hair.  It can be a bit difficult to hold a dryer, push a button AND style one's hair.  Now, my husband tells me that it's a safety feature, so that people don't leave the hair dryer on.  

Just a few things to note:  

#1: We've traveled a LOT in the past, and I've never taken my own hair dryer.  I've used some great ones and some not-so-great ones, but I've NEVER used a hair dryer that required the button to be held down while drying.  Well...at least not until now.

#2: This particular hotel has a set up where the room key card must be left in a slot in order for the outlets to work.  So, it would be impossible to leave a hair dryer running unattended if one removed the key card while existing the room. 

#3:  My husband hasn't used a hair dryer on his head in the 42 years that we've been married.

I think the last point reflects my strong opinion that he has no idea what he's talking about.  In any event, it really wasn't a big deal, just an inconvenience, and a small price to pay for what ended up being a delightful place to stay.

Our first stop this morning was Castle Coole. 



It stands on Lough Coole near the village of Enniskillen and can be viewed from across the lough, although I will admit, it's kind of tricky to get the shot with the plant growth blocking the view. 


This former home is not a castle at all.  It is a manor house built in the Neoclassical style.  It has a stunning collection of original items within its walls.  Photography was not permitted, so you'll just have to take my word on that.  The castle was built in 1790.

It dawned on me today, that none of the recent castles that we have toured are the traditional buildings that we associate with that word.  They are all stately homes, but certainly considered a castle by the owners at the time.  Here you see the stables that were part of the estate.


Our house tour was extremely detailed, and we finally exited the building well over an hour after we had entered.  We hopped in the car and headed to Florence Court, which is somewhat of a "sister" to this house.  There is a family connection between the two houses but I can't recall the exact details.  I do know that this house was built around 1740, and that it shares a set of hand painted china with Castle Coole, a tidbit that we picked up on that tour. 

We headed to the stables to get a cuppa with a scone


Today's choice was treacle.


We then headed inside for another personal tour of this estate. 


Once again, photos were not permitted as the items are still the personal property of family.  But there were certainly some amazing pieces in this house as well.

There was a walled garden on the property, although not all four sides are surrounded by that wall.






But, as you can see, the vistas were stunning.  And, here is the front of the Georgian style Florence Court.


Once again, our tour guide was fabulous in presenting a wealth of information in an entertaining fashion.

From here, we were back on the road  with  Castle Parke as our destination, located on the shore of Lough Gill.  We twisted and turned our way up and around hills and dales on the way to get there.

I have forgotten to mention that we have a split personality, Dr Jekyll - Ms Hyde,  GPS that we are using for directions.  (I say Ms because both voices are female.)   It's actually been quite comical as the soft voice of Ms Hyde will begin to give a specific instruction only to be interrupted by a quite stern sounding Dr. Jekyll who begins by saying: "SORRY, starting over..."only to repeat exactly what the former instruction had been. 

There's no rhyme or reason as to when she will interrupt the instructions, although Marty has his own theories.  So far, none of them have offered a satisfying explanation to the craziness. No surprise there. But I do have to admit, it sure does keep us on our toes!

Driving along, we were awed by the landscape.

But we came to a spot where road construction prohibited us from continuing down the desired road.  Marty asked the workman if he could go through.  He shook his head no, then went on to tell Marty to "just take the wee road to the right and it will get you to the same spot". 

"Wee" was an understatement.   The road was barely wider than the car.


And, just when Marty felt that he was handling things fine, a large deer popped out right in front of us before scurrying into the woods on the opposite side.  This was the best shot I could muster, as he was certainly wary of us.


We finally made it down to the lough where the view was spectacular, as you can see here.



Finally, the castle was in front of us.


Believe it or not, this is actually considered to be a semi-fortified manor house of the plantation period.  However, historic Ireland does classify it as a castle.  It was built by Robert Parker in the early 17th century, and it had many of the defensive characteristics of a castle. 

There had been a tower house right smack in the middle with the original construction in the mid 1500s, which had been built by Brian O'Rourke. This man had sheltered a shipwrecked captain of the Spanish Armada, and consequently, O'Rourke was executed for treason. This was when Parke was granted ownership of the land. The tower was dissembled by the new owner, and he used the stones to add pigeon tower as well as a tower house to adjoin the castle walls. 





A tour group showed up shortly after we arrived, but we managed to get through the grounds in plenty of time to avoid any commotion.  We took a quick peek down at the lough. 

The edge of the lough laps very closely to the foot of the castle, making it clear why this was an excellent location for a fortification. 





By this point, we were castled out, so we made the drive to our lovely B&B in Ballymote. Unfortunately, there were no restaurants serving in the town today, so we headed back up the road to Strandhill, where we enjoyed an amazing meal.  And the views along the way weren't too bad, as you can see. 



That's all for today.  Tomorrow involves a trip to Knock with a Ukulele that Marty carted all the way over with him.  Not sure what that will entail but I'll make every attempt to keep you informed.

Until then. 










Sunday, July 10, 2022

A Spectacular Sunday in Northern Ireland

 Today offered a bit of a different twist from the average tourist adventure.  This morning, we headed to Strabane to mass at Sacred Heart Church.  

And what a glorious event that was.  As a bit of a background story, let me back up two years, when the pandemic was in full force and churches were on complete lockdown.  One Sunday morning, I stumbled upon Mass being livestreamed via the Leckpatrick webcam.  Marty and I watched it in its entirety on our television at home.  I recall how taken we both were with Father Sweeney's homily.  We decided to get up the next Sunday to watch, again, at 6:30 am.  Once again, we felt blessed to have found this man, as his homilies offered an insight which neither one of us had experienced in all of our years of attending weekly mass.  One thing led to another, and I was marking my calendar for any possible special programs that he offered in addition to weekly mass.

Time passed, and we began to attend locally again, but we still continued to rise in time to watch Fr. Sweeney at 6:30 am.  

So, when I planned this trip, I felt that it was the perfect opportunity to meet this man whom we both had found so insightful.  And, this morning was that day. It felt surreal to sit in the pew in person rather than looking down from above.  The first thing I noticed was the array of flowers in the church. In all the time I watched, I never saw such a display.  It seems there was a wedding yesterday, and the mother of the bride is a florist.

As an added bonus, the old church had a full choir in attendance, which is something the parish has been lacking since Covid hit.  Apparently a choir group asked Fr. Sweeney just yesterday,  if they could sing at today's mass, and how fortunate for us that they did!  The sound of their melodic voices echoing through the confines of the church only enhanced the experience that much more.

And, you can only imagine our surprise, when the priest had a woman present us with a special gift, and thank us for following the church on the webcam all of these years. We were there to thank THEM, and here they were, offering us thanks for being devoted watchers.

We were sure to get a photo with Fr Sweeney.


And here is the lovely gift that we received: 



It is a Belleek Porcelain St. Brigid Cross, made in a nearby village.

I am completely unfamiliar with this beautiful creation, and I would certainly appreciate any insight that any of my readers might offer regarding the story behind this unique gift. But honestly, how could I NOT feel blessed at receiving such special attention?  Obviously, the Irish can certainly make us feel welcome.

After mass, we were invited to chat with Fr over a cup of tea for a little while, then we headed out back on the highway, this time to a National Trust site called The Argory.


This is simply a country home whose name translates "hill of the garden".  It was built by Walter McGeough, who added Bond to his surname, to remember his grandmother, the wealthy heiress Elizabeth Bond. The house was built incurring no debts, passing down through several generations prior to being donated to the National Trust. 
The house stands on a piece of land that runs along the River Blackwater, which offers a spectacular view from the front interior.

Upon entry through the front door, one can't help but be awed by this free standing staircase, which, quite honestly, was the highlight of the home.

The interior rooms held quite a collection of eclectic items that the family had collected over the years, and, unfortunately, it gave quite a cluttered look to the place, in my opinion.  

Some of the unique items inside were a pipe organ, that was set up like a player piano.  There was a giant roll that nested into the back of the instrument that plays various tunes on its own.  The volunteer told us that the only downfall is that it is very loud.

She also pointed out this very rare and unusual piece that is Dutch.  I can't recall the details, but she said that it was, by far, the most valuable item on the premises, but that the National Trust cannot determine just when it had been acquired.  It remains to be a mystery.


Note the photographer in the corner of the dining room.  He was really enjoying some of the odd items that we spotted while walking through the house.


Outside, we walked through some gardens






and decided to walk a bit along the river.  Here you see a metal bridge, known as the Bond Bridge, which was built in the early 1900s.  We had driven across it in order to access the property, although I did find it a bit disconcerting to read a warning stating that it was a "weak" bridge.

But, obviously, it's still holding up for vehicle traffic.
We ventured from the river, along the edge of the property, on a path that turned into what looked like a wooden boardwalk leading us through the woods.

I found it a bit bazaar that so much effort was put into building such a long stretch of a path, but when I spotted someone pushing a pram along, it all made sense. 

We found ourself at the walled garden, and I eagerly peeked through the gate.


But it was obvious that the garden has been unattended for quite some time, although I did spot some fruit trees that were filled with maturing fruit.

Heading back to the car park, we were scrutinized by a group of cows that insisted on keeping their eyes on us as we walked past.  They all seemed quite curious.  Perhaps they don't see many American tourists ambling by.


By this time,  we knew we had well over an hour's drive back to the hotel, so we headed back in that direction and decided to stop at a nearby restaurant for dinner.  The sun was shining brilliantly, so we decided to head out on a little venture and explore the area, as we leave to travel south tomorrow.
We are near the Sperrin mountains, and we soon found ourselves traveling along a very narrow road, and enjoying the stunning views of the mountains around us.

We came across Harry Avery Castle, which stands in a middle of a farmers field.




Would you believe that it was nearly 9:00 PM when those were photographed?  It certainly stays light very LONG here!

Traveling along, we ended up stopping in Newtonstewart, where we walked out on a bridge to capture a photo of the river.

and spotted the ruins of the old castle in town.

Crossing over the bridge, we headed towards a small park where there were several fishermen eagerly fly fishing for salmon.



Marty had a grand time chatting with them, and they were all eager to offer friendly advice, as have been all of the Irish people whom we have met so far on this trip.

It's been great fun staying here in County Tyrone, but it's time to move on.  We'll be heading out tomorrow, ending our day in Sligo, where yet another adventure awaits.

Here's hoping that this awesome weather continues!