Travels to Yorkshire

 Our day began, cold & drizzly, as we enjoyed a lovely breakfast at the Tempus before checking out.  We bundled up and headed to Howith Hall, home of the Earl of Grey.  Howick was home to the Grey family from 1310 to 1963, when the 5th Earl of Grey died.  Over time, it passed in possession to the present Lord Howick, who is the grandson of the 5th Earl of Grey, Charles 2nd. 

Charles the 2nd is considered to be the most famous Grey in the family, serving as Prime Minister from 1830 to 1834.  He was directly responsible for the passing of the Great Reform Bill of 1832 which jump started the process of parliamentary reform.  Slavery was abolished during his ministry as well. 

He and his wife, Mary Ponsonby were married in 1795 and she bore 15 children, 13 of whom grew to adulthood.  The acres of land near the North Sea offered the perfect environment in which to raise such a large family. 

Charles was directly responsible for the myriad of gardens that fill the land surrounding Howick Hall.  The grounds are filled with plants grown from wild collected seeds, divided into 6 different world regions:  China, India & Pakistan, Japan and NE Asia, North America, Europe and the Southern Hemisphere.  Each country has its own section in the arboretum so that visitors can view different species that come from different countries.  

Marty and I decided to just walk around some of the paths and we really didn't pay much attention to the countries that were represented in the plants. 

We found it amusing that crocuses were popping up in so many fields, as we would have expected to see them in early spring, not in late summer! 

As you can see, the gardens near the house are well tended and cared for. 

Queen Victoria was once an overnight guest at Howick Hall, and during her visit, she planted an Algerian Oak sapling which  had been grown from acorns that Prince Albert had tended. 

We were able to spot it nestled among many other trees along the walk. 

The interior of the house has been refurbished as a Visitor Center, but two rooms are devoted to furnishings, paintings and some collectibles of the family. 

The delicate Chinese wallpaper really brightened up the dining room. 

There were several family paintings adorning the walls. 

Here are just a few that caught my eye. 

And this magnificent piece is a painting of the passing of the reform bill with the face of every man who was present.  Pretty amazing.

On the grounds stands a church which continues to be used today. 

To the right of the entrance door, a war memorial is mounted, listing the names of the local men who died in action during World War I. 

Howick Hall had stood as a recovery hospital during the war, and Lady Sybil Grey was quite active in running the convalescent home.  She was also an avid photographer and took many pictures of time spent in the Howick Hall hospital, leading to some real insight to the activities of the war and post war periods. 

In 1917, she traveled to Russia to set up a British volunteer hospital in St. Petersburg.  There is a photo on the wall in the church that shows the Romanev Princess Alexandra and her four daughters, sitting among a large group of hospital residents.  It was taken just months prior to their execution by the Bolshaviks. 

A dove memorial stands next to the photo.

The church has a lovely altar and beautiful stained glass window on the side. 

but what really fascinated me was the collection of needlepoint kneelers that were hanging in every pew.

I had a difficult time picking my favorites, as you will see here. But, rest assured, there were many that I passed on photographing.  

And here you see Charles the 2nd, the famous Earl of Grey.

Aren't these amazing?  I can't even imagine how much time went into sewing these beautiful creations.  The process began with a painting by a talented artist, and then the painting was used as a template for these creations. Just amazing. 

But there is one more aspect to Earl Grey that I have failed to mention.  He is the man who is responsible for the tea reflecting his name: Earl Grey.  He had received a special blend created by a Chinese Mandarin who used bergamot with the tea leaves to offset the taste of the lime that is present in the water at Howick. 

Lady Grey offered the tea while entertaining in London and it grew so popular that the Twining Company began to market it, with the family devoid of any money in royalties from Twinings. 

Wasn't that story fascinating?

We had planned on enjoying some of the famous brew in the tea house located inside but, alas, they only accepted cash payment.  And we have yet to find a bank in which to secure a few pounds.   So, we had to accept our disappointment and leave with out a brew. 

We had a long drive ahead of us, and we headed south, into Yorkshire, into the midst of the North Yorkshire Moors.  It took us just shy of three hours to reach our destination which was Goathland Train Station.   I read that this station was featured in a Harry Potter Movie, but I've never seen any of the movies, so I cannot attest to that.  Perhaps some of my blog followers will recognize it and let me know. 

Can you tell that Marty is waiting for the perfect shot of the incoming train? 

We rode from Goathland to Whitby

and back to Goathland, passing some incredible scenery along the way.

It really is a charming train station, nestled in the Yorkshire Moors.

And while I was waiting for Marty to take even more photos upon our return

I spied that fella munching away at the brush on the hill. Can you see the sheep standing precariously on the hill behind the train car? 

The adventure ended with a steam train making its way back to Whitby. 

At one point on the train, we went through a tunnel where the cabin became completely dark. I mean you couldn't see your hand in front of your face. I don't know that I've ever been in an area that is THAT dark.  I jokingly mentioned to the people next to us that it reminded me of a scene that belonged in an Agatha Christie novel.   The fella sitting across the way shouted:  My wallet's missing!  And we all began to laugh.  Those Brits certainly do have a sense of humor! 

One thing that I failed to mention was the delectable delight that we enjoyed while waiting to board the train.  We had arrived with about 20 minutes to spare and Marty popped his head into the tea house on the platform.   They featured scones already loaded with clotted cream with a touch of strawberry jam.  You know we weren't passing on that!  So, she made us some Yorkshire tea, and set us up each with one of these tender, perfect creations. 

It just might rate as the best one ever!  And if you follow my blog, then you know there have been a LOT of scone tastings over the years!

We're staying in Robin Hood's Bay, in a B&B/Hotel that is located at the top of the hill that leads down to the North Sea.  The views are stunning, and I can't wait to get some pictures to share.  You can't help but just fall in love with this beauty!

Until next time....

A Glorious Day in Northumberland

 The weather today was brilliant!  We couldn't have asked for better. 

We began today with breakfast at the Orangery, the restaurant that is on-site.  It was suggested that we arrive early for a less hectic meal, and we did just that.  Thinking back, I'm glad that we chose that option as we encountered a few challenges as the day went on that involved some real patience.  So it was nice to relax and enjoy a slow paced meal as a start. 

The plans for the day included a visit to Holy Island, but the causeway wasn't open until 1:00, so we had decided to visit a museum in Bamburgh first.  The website for the Grace Darling Museum states that there is a free parking lot across the street.  So, that's where we headed after breakfast. 

We took some backroads to enjoy the scenery, which, as you can see, was quite amazing. 

Once in Bamburgh, we had no problem finding the parking lot. But, today, there was a "closed" sign hanging on it.  We weren't quite sure what to do.  Google reviews mentioned the free street parking that was easy to find.  

Well....not today!  We circled around several times and finally located a Pay & Display lot across from Bamburgh Castle. Since we had no other option, Marty parked the car and we began the hike up the hill to the front entrance of the museum. 

This is the truly fascinating story about a light keeper's daughter, named Grace, who braved the elements one night to rescue shipwrecked passengers during a brutal storm.  A replica of the lighthouse stands in the middle of the museum. 

This one woman's brave act resulted in both she, and her father, being honored for their actions and both became celebrities nearly overnight. 

Grace was the seventh child born to Thomas and William Darling, a Lighthouse Keeper.  Her birthdate was Nov 24, 1815. Her childhood was spent studying as well as learning the responsibilities of a Lighthouse Keeper.  She enjoyed joining her father when he went out in the boat, and she also had the responsibility of watching the sea during set times everyday. 

In 1838, she was peering out at the sea during a horrendous storm when she spotted a shipwreck from her bedroom window at 4:45 am.  By 7:00, it was light enough to see that people were stranded on a rock on the Farne Islands. 

The ship was the SS Forfarshire,  feted to be indestructible, yet the boilers had completely stopped and the boat was set adrift during the storm.  The Captain presumed the lighthouse he had spotted was the Inner Farne lighthouse, so he was completely taken by surprise when the ship was forced onto perilous rocks on the island that held Longstone Lighthouse.  The ship broke in two and 48 passengers were swept away into the dark waters, never to return. 

Grace and her father never hesitated, and both decided to row out in the horrendous storm and rescue as many survivors as possible. They were only able to bring nine passengers to safety. 

But, due to their fortitude and bravery, both William and Grace became well known local celebrities.  Newspapers published the stories nationwide as well as internationally.  She received a Gold Medal of Bravery and a Silver Medal for Gallantry. 

She began to receive letters, money and gifts from well wishes.  Even Queen Victoria sent her £50!  The Duke of Northumberland decided that he needed to act as advisor to Grace, with so many gifts suddenly being bestowed upon her. 

After all that hoopla, she died from what they believe was Tuberculosis, just four years later. 

The museum had a fascinating display of original articrafts: her baby cradle and christening gown. 

Her father's written journals. 

Her original carved gravestone (relocated here, behind glass,  to insure preservation) and a replica of a stained glass window in the church. 

It also has the original English Coble, a traditional fishing boat known to this area, which was used during the rescue.  Kind of amazing to see it in such beautiful condition considering how much use it would have had. 

The church stands right across from the museum.

and right next door is the house where Grace Darling was born. 

I found the entire story to be quite fascinating.  I recalled hearing about Grace's brave actions when we visited a lighthouse just a bit north of this on a trip two years ago. But I never realized the aftermath of accolades following  the event. So despite our early morning parking snafu, we were glad that we didn't just move on. 

Walking back down to the parking lot, we spotted these clever door handles. Fit for a fisherman, I'd dare to say.

And Marty grabbed a selfie of us in front of Bamburgh Castle. Just look at that beautiful blue sky!

We had visited here when Marty was working in Scotland, many years ago, and it was quite spectacular.  The castle is actually featured as the ancestral home of "Birdie" husband of Lady Edith in Downton Abbey.  And there were quite a number of people heading up to tour it today. 

In fact, when we returned to the parking lot, it was nearly full.  I watched one couple driving around, looking for a spot, and I mentioned to them that we were leaving if they wanted our space.  They were very grateful, and I had to laugh when the woman jumped out of the car so that she could stand watch to make sure that someone else didn't come along and grab it!   Honestly, I never would have expected such crowds in mid September! 

The parking debacle ate up a lot of time, so we found ourselves arriving at the crossing point about 15 minutes prior to the suggested crossing time.  There was a queue of cars, and they were slowly moving, so we just tagged along at the end.  Once on the island, one has about nine hours until the tide comes barreling back in, but we had opted to just visit for about 3 hours.  That saved us from having to worry about watching the clock in order to return. 

It appears that some visitors decide to ignore the posted crossing times, and, as a result, just earlier this month, two different cars needed to be rescued due to the tide rushing in. 

Signs are posted to warn visitors to be sure to look at the schedules, which are actually posted on the island for ease.   Just the thought of this happening was enough for me to assure we were off the island with time to spare! 

It was mentioned that in the PBS series, Vera, she supposedly lives on Holy Island. But, if that were the case, she'd be stuck on the island for 9 hours every day with no escape.  Hardly likely. 

The village of Lindisfarne is on Holy Island, as well as Lindisfarne Castle at the tip.  The castle stands opposite the village. 

It's a little over a mile walk each way, so we began the trek along the shore. 

We made it to the entrance gate with more distance to cover before we actually got to the castle. 

The steps up into the castle were a bit tricky to maneuver with the pitch being very steep and the walkway being very rocky. 

But once inside, it was worth the effort!

Once again, the history of this castle was fascinating.   It was built as a garrison and served from the 1550s to 1893 to protect from the invasion of the Scots.  At one point, it mounted 21 cannons.  It last saw action during the Jacobite Rebellion of 1715. 

In 1901, Henry Hudson, founder of Country Life magazine, visited Holy Island and noted that the castle was becoming dilapidated due to lack of care.  He decided that he wanted to turn this structure into a holiday home.  So, the interior reflects the modifications that he made in order to fulfill his dream. 

There were some cozy fireplaces.

And a unique dining room which featured beaded lobsters on the table.  I'm not sure what the meaning behind that was. 

A replica of a ship hung over the table.

There were some clever quips to give one the idea of what life was like in this holiday home. 

We were able to climb up the steps to have a look at the view from the top.

Can you tell that it was windy?

One thing to note here is that this castle was filled with crowds of people as well. Considering that this is a timed visit due to the tides, I had never expected so many people.  We wanted to grab a bite to eat but every establishment that we popped into had at least a dozen people waiting to be served. I was a bit disheartened. I did grab this photo at one of the venues.  Note the seal in the front (not a real one) and the castle in the far distance.    

By this time, my feet (and knees and back) had had enough(do you think I might be getting old?), so we decided to head back to the car park, which was quite full proving that a lot of people arrived after us.  Perhaps the Bamburgh castle visitors decided to pop over for a visit as well. 

We crossed the causeway and were headed back towards our B&B when Marty spotted a cute cafe off the road.  So, we popped in, and did have to wait to be seated, but there were only two groups in front of us so the wait wasn't long. 

And, we got to enjoy this spectacular view while munching on a treat and sipping some delicious tea.

Just perfect!

Refueled, for a bit, we headed to Preston Tower.  I had discovered it while researching for places near our B&B.

It was hidden off a little country road about 8 miles from where we are staying. We parked the car, walked beneath a tree, and there it was!

Note the clock face in the middle at the top.  Just about 2 minutes after we arrived, that clock started chiming.....5 times.  It was 5 o'clock.  We certainly weren't expecting that! 

We walked through the front door and began making our way to the top.  Here you see Marty standing next to the two weights that work the clock. 

And a level up is the gear mechanism. 

At the top of the tower is a very short door.  Once opened, one is treated to these awesome views!

Picture perfect, don't you think?

On the first floor there is a miniature replica of the tower. 

This tower was built in the late 1390's as protection from invading Scots.  It has seven foot thick walls which is what was needed during this tumultuous time period.  When English and Scotland joined in 1603, the tower was not needed as defense anymore. Half of Preston Tower was demolished in the 17th century and the stone was used for farm buildings.  

What remains is the original tower.   What a great find! Plus....we had the place to ourselves!  The peace and tranquility were much appreciated. 

We started back to our B&B, taking a slightly different route, when we came across these magnificent horses!

One even ventured all the way over to me to say hi.  Or, perhaps looking for a treat.  But I had nothing to share. 

What an amazing way to end the day.  

We enjoyed dinner once again at the Orangery.  Marty really liked staying here at the Tempus.  And I must admit, having the option to dine in rather than drive for a meal is quite appealing when you've been out and about all day. 

Tomorrow we move into Robin Hood's Bay.  We'll be on the road a bit but we're both looking forward to exploring this part of the Yorkshire Moors. 

I'll be sure to keep you posted!