There's a yellow wind warning alert day today as Storm Austen pushes its way though the United Kingdom. We are quite fortunate not to be in the south west of this country, and it appears that we managed to skirt some issues by traveling north east today. Although I can certainly hear the wind blowing up a storm outside the window!
We said our good byes to the staff at the Packhorse Inn, and started our journey to Cromer this morning. On the way to Oxburgh, which was our scheduled National Trust destination, we found ourselves on the highway adjacent to a large RAF air base, and before we knew it, there were fighter jets flying here and there, some in unison, some doing quick turns and 90 degree banking. It was all quite exciting to see.
As we headed into the back roads, I spotted these large farm areas with what looked like plastic igloos placed about 20 feet apart. It kind of looked like something from an alien movie. It was difficult to actually see what they were clearly because the hedgerows along the side of the road were too high and thick to get a good look.
But when we came to a break in the hedgerows, I realized that there were pigs hanging out near every one of those plastic looking creations. After a bit of research, I learned that this is a newer approach to raising animals for food production. Apparently people want to be sure that the meat they are eating was raised in a more comfortable environment. Kind of like a spa life for a pig. Before you eat it. At least the pig had a good life.
We finally arrived at Oxburgh, which is an estate off a small country road (in the midst of pig farms), although only sheep could be seen from the estate grounds.
Once we arrived, true to form, we were greeted by a National Trust employee who gave us a really quick run down on the estate.
Oxburgh is a country house that has a moat surrounding it.
That area under the bridge walk way should be filled with water. But due to the extreme heat and dry weather this summer, the moat remains dry. They were hoping that Storm Austen might help to fill it a bit. But, obviously, we won't be seeing the moat which, from pictures, certainly does look amazing.
The house was built in 1482 in a Tudor style, for Sir Edmund Bedingfeld. He was a steward for King Henry the VIII.
But the Bedingfeld family was Roman Catholic. In 1559, Sir Henry Bedingfeld refused to sign the Act of Uniformity which outlawed the Catholic Mass. They would continue to practice their faith, secretly, and even went so far as to put a priest hole in what appeared to be the privy directly off the bedroom.
The turret with the priest hole was adjacent to the King's Bedroom.
This was a very large room and although a King never slept in this room as it is now, at one time, King James I, had stayed at Oxburgh for one night in a similar room in a different part of the house.
One thing to note is the tapestry. They hang on all four walls but are strictly copies made from other tapestries that would have been hung elsewhere.
The religious conviction to Catholicism can be seen in this painting
It shows the 1st Baronet kneeling with his wife and eight children under the mantle of the Virgin Mary.
Entering the main part of the house takes one to a drawing room that has numerous family paintings on the walls.
This is George II, Prince of Wales.
and his wife, Queen Caroline
Neither would have lived in Oxburgh.
Because the family was Catholic, the hall went through pillaging and destruction. It is believed that Sir Henry Arundell Bedingfeld, 3rd Baronet was a secret Jacobite supporting Bonnie Prince Charles. There is a Jacobite drinking glass on display in one of the rooms.
It is the only surviving glass from a set of eight.
The Catholic Emancipation Act of 1829, eliminated the restrictions that had been placed on Catholic families. the 6th Baronet, Sir Henry Bedingfeld had married Margaret Barton who came with a substantial inheritance. The couple commissioned an architect to restore Oxburgh in a Gothic Revival Style.
This is when the decorative chimneys and windows were added. A chapel was added in 1836.
The altar centerpiece is 16th century and was purchased for this purpose in Belgium during one of Henry and Margaret's trips.
The windows were made by Thomas Willement.
The church to this day continues to be a practicing Roman Catholic church.
Over time, the condition of the estate began to decline. After WWII was complete, the tenants left to find work elsewhere. The maintenance of Oxburgh could not be kept up.
The family sold the property to an Insurance company who broke the 3,653 acres into smaller parcels. Those parcels were taken to auction. The plot of land where the house stands, Parcel #1, was bid on by a builder who planned on razing it to the ground, but saving the brick and timber for use elsewhere. The insurance company was appalled. They told the family that if they could raise £5000 , they would give the house back to the family. And that's just what they did.
The family attempted to sell it to the National Trust, but they would not accept the property without an endowment. So, the family then managed to raise £25,000. The Trust took over the property in 1952.
In the meantime , extensive renovations have been done recently, including replacing the roof.
There were several unique items worth mentioning in respect to the holdings in the house. First, the house was featuring a program called "A Regency Romance". It highlights Agnes Bedingfeld, daughter of the 7th Baronet, and her marriage to Thomas Molyneux-Seel.
The couple was married in 1823, and then embarked on a Grand Tour honeymoon that lasted over a year. During their time in Italy, they had these busts made of themselves.
They also had these portraits done:
Aren't they magnificent?
This couple is responsible for most of the furniture in the house. They repurposed items that they purchased while on their grand tour.
Some other interesting items to note are the ceiling in the ballroom
There was a portrait of Mary, Queen of Scots, and her needlepoint scissors.
And, remarkably enough, there was a room devoted to tapestries that Mary had made while imprisoned.
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I was amazed that these even existed, much less hung in a room in this former Tudor home.
One other story of interest relates to this reclaimed tapestry.
The woman's name in the creation is Esther, and she is one of Oxburgh's original 16th century furnishings. She has been one of the "curious" tapestries hanging in the King's room mentioned earlier.
While visiting Oxburgh in 1819, Charlotte Bedingfeld made sketches of this tapestry.
Look closely and you will see that Esther is on the left hand side of this sketch. These artistic creations were found in a book in the attic when the National Trust was going through the process of cleaning the books on the property.
In the meantime, in 1929, the tapestry was sold, as were many items, for funds to maintain the hall. In 2025, a Dutch collector realized the significance of this tapestry, and donated it to the National Trust. Esther could be verified as being the one hanging in the house by the drawings that had been done and just stashed in a book. How's that for a happy ending?
Our tour complete, we had to exit down a round turret staircase.
That's just a little tricky.
Then we headed outside to take a few more photos while the skies were not yet raining.
This was the only pool of water that I could find to try to give you an idea of how beautiful this building would look with water in the moat surrounding it.
Marty wanted a selfie
And you can definitely see the change in weather dynamics by this point.
Of course, we had to have the cream tea.
Then we headed out, took a quick look at the kitchen garden
and the remaining floral blooms in the gardens.
One last look
then out through the gate we came through when we arrived.
Another great day exploring this unique history.
Marty made the drive to our B&B which is a little village called Overstrand. It's just a few miles from Cromer, which stands on the North Sea. We are staying at Mill house which has history of its own. It's not far from the sea, although you cannot see it from the house.
However, we ventured out in the wind and rain to walk to a nearby restaurant, and at one point, the water was clearly visible. Marty took this photo.
Dinner was delicious, and we walked back, only this time on the street. Let me just say that it's very DARK here with no street lights, and although the moon should be nearly full, Austen is definitely keeping the lights off here!
I'm off to sleep.
Until next time...
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