Jerusalem…..My Destiny

We've had quite an experience here in Jerusalem. Way too much to put in one blog.  So, my plan is to fill you in on some highlights of the day, and share our adventures with you as I get organized with the photos and have the time to post more.  In the meantime, let me give you the highlights of the day.

We awoke to brilliant sunshine, but brisk temperatures.  Perfect for making the hike which would involve a lot of up and down travel by foot.

After a delightful breakfast here at the St. Andrew Scottish Guesthouse, we took a quick photo from the veranda outside our room

and set out for the Via Dolorosa. 

We had decided to enter the Old City through the Lion's gate which is located opposite the Jaffa gate.  Despite leaving early in order to beat out the tour busses, it took us nearly an hour by foot to walk the distance to the gate.

The tour busses were already in full force when we finally arrived. 

Once through the gate, we headed towards St. Anne's Church. We were already detouring from our plans for the day, but this was a once in a lifetime opportunity, so we planned to make the most of it! 

Upon walking through the doors, we found ourselves in the midst of a large tour group who appeared to be Ethiopian.  They may have hailed some other African country as home, but for the purposes of this blog, the exact country is immaterial.

At first, I was dismayed, knowing that the day would involve dealing with a multitude of tour groups.  We had hoped for at least a little tranquility!  

But, as I was scoping out my plan for moving around this group, the church suddenly filled with a spectacular musicial experience as this group began to sing A Cappella "Allellulia".  

Just a simple phrase, sung as a Latin chant, but unbelievably beautiful.  The director then led them into "Amazing Grace".   I couldn't help but be immersed in the beauty of the moment.   It was as if time had stood still.  I was in awe as I watched and listened to their joyful sounds.

This group then got up out of the pews, walked to the front of the Sanctuary, and began to sing something in their native language.  It was obvious from their expressions that they were singing a song of praise to God. 

At this point, I found myself on the verge of tears.  The delight in their faces, combined with their amazing voices as they moved around and waved their arms in celebration, left me with a strong sense of the spirit among them.  

What had I been thinking?  This group of Pilgrims had added something to the beginning of my day that would change the way I thought as I dealt with the craziness and commotion that would follow throughout this day.  How lucky were we, to have begun our Jerusalem tour with this type of enthusiasm surrounding us?  

When the crowd moved on, we were able to look through the many icons in this church. 

St. Anne was the mother of Mary, which would make her Jesus' grandmother.  The church featured a statue of St. Anne with Mary as a young girl.

Here is the simply decorated sanctuary with a purple robe decorating the altar to symbolize Lent.

Beneath the church, in a small chapel, is a special devotion to the birth of the Blessed Mother.

Above is a Russian Icon which is entitled "The Nativity of Our Lady".  

The spot below the church is recognized as the home that Mary would have known as a child. 

There is an icon designating the spot of Mary's birth,  set among the rocks of the original mountain below the church.

This was all quite fascinating to us.  

Outside the church are the remains of a 3rd century Temple. 

From this point, we headed back down to the street to make our way to the Via Dolorosa. 

 My plan is to highlight that walk in a later blog, as the wi-fi here is slow, and a beautiful day is once yet calling our name here in Jerusalem.

The day was certainly quite the adventure and we would find ourselves crushed in the midst of countless tour groups, one of which involves a delightful story.  But that is for another day.

As I had mentioned in yesterday's blog, the Via Dolorosa is flanked by Arab vendors hounding you as you walk along the path, attempting to get you into their store, or, in some cases, offer their services to the tourist who appears to be lost, and even those who aren't!

We found ourselves a bit confused, looking for the VIII station, so Marty and I chose what we thought was a private corner to study the map.  The scene that follows could play out in a Bing Crosby/ Bob Hope movie.  One with Leddie La Mar comes to mind.

We were both intent on the map, trying to locate just where we were, when, suddenly, an Arab face appears between our two heads, popping out from a body that was standing behind us.

Two large eyes looked at me and then at Marty and he said, " Are you lost? Can I help you?" 

Words cannot describe the look that must have been on both of our faces.  

We assured the man that we were just fine,  closed the map, and headed off, not really worrying about whether or not we were going the right way.

Just for the record, we did find what we were looking for.

After a full day on the Via Dolorosa, we ventured out to David's Tomb, which is located right outside the Old City Walls.

Here you can see a statue of David playing the harp at then entrance. 

We entered the shrine, and noticed a doorway that was marked "David's tomb."

The plaque above this arched doorway is marked such.

Upon peering inside, I noticed the words "Women" and "Men "neatly marked on the walls.  I had presumed that this was a bathroom.  

Marty said that we needed to enter the room in order to see the tomb. 

I laughed at his suggestion, and said, "Why, do we need to use the restroom?  "

That's when Marty looked at me and said,  "We have to enter the room separately."

Realization set in at how ridiculous I must have looked!  Luckily, I don't think Marty caught onto my query!

One last note before I close for the day.

Marty just wants you to know that the Steeler Nation is everywhere.

The proof is in the photo!

Shalom!

Greetings from St. Andrew's Scottish Guesthouse

Can you believe it?

I'm  in Jerulasem, on the outskirts of the old city, staying in an establishment called, St. Andrew's Scottish Guesthouse.

We feel right at home!   And the weather is mimicking Scotland's to a tee.  Cold and rainy!
I realize that many of my blogger friends are dealing with temps that are much colder, but this is Israel, and the temperatures are generally in the low 70's at this time of year.  I just checked, and the outside temperature is 46 degrees at 5:00 p.m.!

Will that dampen our spirits?  Heck no!  You know us…..we never let the weather keep us from getting out and gallivanting.  Plus, I brought my raincoat with the removable wool lining.  You better believe that it's being buttoned back in before we set out for dinner.

We have room number 1, which requires hiking up 4 sets of stairs, but it is worth every one of them to enjoy the beautiful view from our bedroom window.

Despite the blustery weather with off and on rain showers, we decided to head into the Old City of Jerusalem and set off to find the Holy Sepulcher Church.

We ended up in a maze of turkish bazaar shops, one after another, selling their wares.  I will admit that I did NOT enjoy being accosted, over and over again, in an attempt to lure me into the store.

I'm going to have to figure out how to deal with this, though, if I want to be able to absorb the history that the Old City  has to offer.  

The church was loaded with tours,  so we briefly walked through and looked at the highlights.

My plan is to go back tomorrow and walk the Via Dolorosa, which ends up in this same church.  That will mean passing by these same shops along the way.  

I've watched the Pope walk the Via Dolorosa on television in years past, and I do not recall seeing one Arab coming up to him and asking him what he is looking for.  (Hey…there's an idea….do you suppose that I could get away with impersonating the Pope on the way?  Is that thought sacrilegious?)

Seriously, I'm  just going to have to learn to deal with it, because the reality is that this is the way it works in Jerusalem.  In the meantime, I'm practicing my "leave me alone"look.  

We're going to try to get out early in the hopes that the tour groups will be at a minimum.  But, even if they are in full force, I hope to be able to walk the path of Jesus on his way to Cavalry. 

We decided to stop for a bite to eat and it turned out that the restaurant had a roof top terrace where we could step out and admire the view.   On a nice day, the rooftop is opened for meals, but with the rain, and the cold, NO one was interested in dining outside.

The views were amazing.

You can see the Mount of Olives in the distance on the right of this picture.
The gold dome is a mosque.

We had to walk back to the Guest House because Marty had a scheduled conference call.

When that was finally finished…well after 8:00, we headed back out the door, in the drizzling, cold weather to climb back up the hill into the Walls of the Old City of Jerusalem.

We headed right to the Armenian Tavern, which we had spotted earlier in the day.

The interior was fascinating, and you certainly knew that you were sitting in a very old building that's for sure.

From the lighting

to the vases, plus a whole lot more….so many things appeared to be hundreds of years old.

And some artifacts were just entertaining.

But the best part of the Tavern was that the food was different AND delicious.

Shalom!

The Quirky Side of Haifa

Did that grab your attention?  I know that it sure brought a chuckle to my face when I first saw it!

I had absolutely no idea what that photo represented until today when I strolled into a local shop and ended up having a lovely conversation with the owner, who insisted on making me a cup of Chamomile Tea (at no charge) while I perused the store and she filled me in on some Jewish history.

The photo represents the Jewish Holiday of Purim, a joyous event that celebrates the time Jewish people were saved from extermination by the Persians,  dating back to the book of Esther in the Old Testament.  The people here liken it to our Halloween, but the children don't go door to door asking for candy.  They do dress up and celebrate, and I suppose that I'll find out more to share, as the weekend unfolds.

I never really expected to venture out today, but what a treat for me, to have met this absolutely delightful woman who went out of her way to make me feel welcome on my last day here in Haifa. 

I had questioned why Marty's company would set him up in a hotel that involves driving over an hour each day, to and from work.  The trip can be stressful, particularly when GPS Lady directs him into a designated bus lane and he has to figure out an alternate route.   

Well, in answer to my question about location, I learned that Haifa is the 3rd largest city in Israel, and the most Metropolitan.  Apparently more people speak English here, which, actually has me kind of concerned for my future gallivanting as I seem to be running into the non-speaking people in this city.

Until today. The woman whom I mentioned spoke English beautifully.

So, before I take leave of the city of Haifa,  I thought that I'd open your eyes to several aspects of this city that took me by surprise. Some I consider to be rather quirky.  Others I'd consider to be downright obnoxious.

But why don't you decide for yourself?

Drivers

Large city = lots of drivers on the road.

Lots of seemingly impatient, angry drivers on the road.

And just why would I think that?  Because I have never heard so much incessant horn-blowing anywhere in my life.  Not in New York City, not in Washington DC,  not in Pittsburgh,  never anywhere in Scotland.

 If you slow down for one second and the driver behind you thinks you should not….. BEEP!!

If you stop to let a pedestrian cross……BEEP!

If you are a pedestrian and you are near a crosswalk looking as if you will cross……BEEP!

If you are a pedestrian walking at a fast pace in the direction of a crosswalk……BEEP!

(Apparently it is easier to beep and let the pedestrian know that you have no intention of stopping, than to actually stop.)

If you change lanes and the guy behind you doesn't like it…..BEEP!

If the guy behind you doesn't like what you're thinking……BEEP!

Ok, so I made up the last one.  Obviously, the guy behind you can't know what you are thinking, but he will beep his horn at you for what appears to be no obvious reason.

so…..who really knows?

You name it….they beep.

I swear….these Israeli drivers will honk their horn if they think that you are just looking at them funny!

Pedestrians (Drivers…cont.)

And, forget about trying to walk across the street at a designated cross walk, unless there is a light that you can regulate with a button.

Don't even risk putting a toe on that cross walk…..unless there are no automobiles in sight.

So, I ask:  Why even bother having marked crossings?

(Don't worry….I'm not expecting an answer.)

Parking (drivers….cont. 2)

And while I am on the subject of automobiles and drivers, I noticed that if there isn't enough room to squeeze in for a parking space, drivers just pull up on the sidewalk.

I was quite surprised when I first saw this, but now…I am not.

Sidewalk Safety (or lack thereof)

Which brings me to the safety limitations of the sidewalks.  I don't know about you, but I have always thought that sidewalks were designed for the safety of the pedestrian.

Do you walk down a sidewalk, peering over your shoulder, in the event that a motorized vehicle just might be coming your way?

I never worried about it……until I was in Haifa.

and I was nearly wiped out by a "foodbulance".

Yes….I have written that word correctly.  One night, I was nearly run over by three of them within a short time of each other.  In fact, we began to wonder if it was the same one attempting to see if he cold succeed in knocking me down!

What is a foodbulance, you ask?  (well, even if you didn't ask, I'm going to tell you.)

Answer: Motorcycles designed with special contraption on the back, the size of a small microwave, designed for the intent purpose of delivering food.

I don't think you have to be dying to have the food delivered….or even sick, for that matter…just hungry.

But Marty and I both think that a foodbulance should have an ambulance nearby, in the event one wipes out a pedestrian on the way to deliver someone's precious dinner!

Tourists

Ok, so maybe this isn't quirky.  And, let's face it…..I'm a tourist.  Let me clarify that I am referring to LARGE groups of people who come to an area for the sole purpose of touring. Most have a leader who carries a flag and wears a funny hat.

I have seen few Americans here in Haifa, but this hotel is turning over tourists every couple of days.  They are generally of some Hebrew descent since they speak the language fluently.
They seem to have some sense of entitlement, particularly when it comes to elevators and breakfast buffets.

Patience does NOT seem to be a word in their vocabulary!!

They will see just how many of their group can squeeze into an elevator, rather than wait for another to arrive, even though there are four elevators to choose from.

When Marty and I checked into the hotel, we made our way to the elevator just as a tour bus of hotel patrons were returning for the day.   It was obvious that we didn't dare make a move.

So, we waited for a break in the action and entered the elevator in what we thought was just in the nick of time.

No such luck!

Another wave of tourists came running in from the bus, and even though the doors were closing, they stormed the doors and began to squeeze into the space with us.  I found myself in the corner, crushed against the side, nearly sitting on my suitcase and holding my carry-on over my head.  I felt like Gumby.

Marty was wearing his backpack, and one women seemed to think that he was responsible for the door not closing at each floor where the elevator stopped, and she kept tugging on his pack, over and over.  I could see that the backpack was not an issue, but far be it from me to say anything.  We were already the victims of glares, as if we had no right to be in the elevator when they wanted to board it.

Finally, when we were alone, we looked at each other, sort of in shock at what we had just witnessed.  Great way to begin a visit, don't you think?

I'm not going to elaborate on breakfast with these groups, but let me just say that, in my best interest, I attempted to stay out of their way.  They load more food on a plate than I eat in a day.  Honestly, I've never seen anything like it in my life.  I've never even seen my 6 ft. 3 in. son-in-law eat that much food in one sitting.  I can't figure out how they do it.

Cell phones (Tourists….cont.)

Ok, so this may not be so quirky either.  I realize that we have a problem nearly everywhere with cell phone users invading quiet space.

But, here, the abuse is much more predominant.  The Hebrew language involves a lot of harsh sounding words.  When listening, it sounds as if one is always yelling at another (which they may very well be doing, since I don't really know what they are saying.)

And not only do they speak loudly, it seems that the cell phone ringer needs to be obnoxiously loud.  Forget about a relaxing lunch….it's just not going to happen.

Cats

Now, this will probably upset some of my blog followers.  Cats are everywhere here in Israel.  One cannot eat outside at a restaurant without being accosted by one of the creatures.

Everywhere you look…..there is a cat lurking.  They are just about everywhere, slinking up to you, mewing relentlessly, hoping for a pat on the head or a morsel to eat.

I even had a few try following me down the street!  Perhaps they are the Israeli version of the Roma.  Only, I don't think that they know how to pick-pocket.  But I better keep my eye on them….just in case.

In just ten minutes, I spotted one by the park by the Carousel

another hanging out in a tree

one lurking down a sidewalk

and this one scowling at me while I took this photo.

Note that they all seem to be well fed, and most of them are very friendly, as Marty will attest to.

Perhaps this is why there is a large statue of a cat in one of the local neighborhoods.

Crazy, don't you think?

Music

I was walking through the zoo the other day, which is right next to a school, when I heard a lovely melody bellowing through the air as if to alert the students that it was lunchtime, or that it was time to change classes.

What was the tune? 

Brahm's Lullaby. (we know it as "go to sleep…go to sleep…go to sleep little baby…) Perhaps the intention was to get the zoo animals to take a little nappy.  Who knows?

The next day, I was walking through the German Colony when yet again, I heard an alarm, around the same time of day.  This time the music was "Rock-a-bye Baby" (you know….on the tree top…when the wind blows…the cradle will rock.)  Luckily, I didn't see any baby cradles, because it was rather windy that day.

But yesterday's was the best.  I walked out of the museum, around the same time of day, and I suddenly heard the song that Shroeder plays on the piano in the Charlie Brown Christmas movie.  It's the first tune that he plunks out when she asked him to play a song for the show.  Unfortunately, I don't remember the name.  But the image immediately popped into my head and I couldn't help but smile.

The other evening, Marty and I were walking through the pedestrian mall that is attached to the hotel, and we realized that the music playing in the background was an instrumental version of the Twelve Days of Christmas.

Luckily, the song only lasted to the golden rings.  That certainly took us by surprise. 

And even today, while walking through the same mall, I suddenly recognized one of the songs as "We Three Kings of Orient Are", again, all instrumental.  Perhaps they forgot to change out the Christmas Music, only not all of the songs are holiday in nature.  Puzzling, for sure.

Cooling Towers in Technocolor

Right about in the middle of this photo is a set of cooling towers that belong to the Electric Company.

Well, those two towers light up at night.

Here's a close up shot that I took while Marty was driving on our way back from Akko the other night.  They took me quite by surprise as we entered the city, and I made a point of looking for them from the Promenade outside our hotel.

They actually look pretty cool at a distance, don't you think?

Just looking at cooling towers in technicolor might entice you to make a trip to the electric company museum, where, for a fee,  you can see for yourself the working facets of this utility plant. 

I passed on that opportunity.

Hidden Hair Dryers

When I travel overseas, I always rely on the hotel or B&B where I am staying, to supply the hair dyer., which is rarely found  in the actual bathroom.  In fact, most  don't even have  a plug in the bathroom, so one is forced to dry hair outside of the bathroom. No problem for me.

Generally, the dryers are relatively easy to find. In this case, I had a bit of a search, but finally found it in the desk drawer.

Perhaps this location was intended to aid the business person who needs to dry hair while using the desk.  But I can tell you that it wasn't convenient for me when Marty was using the desk for work on his computer.   

Why would that be an issue?  Because the short-corded dryer base was bolted into the desk drawer!

So, you can't dry your hair unless the drawer is open, which pretty much rules out being able to use the desk at the same time.

Perhaps there is a practical purpose that I am missing.  Feel free to comment or send me an e-mail if you have an idea that supports this design.

Well, that pretty much ends my analysis of Haifa.

Marty has just returned with a container of cookies in celebration of Purim, that someone at work gave to him.  

One of them is supposedly designed to represent the Persian King's Ear.  I suppose the idea is to get even with the king for attempting to annihilate the Jewish Community back in the day.

Now, isn't that a delightful thought?

I'd probably find the whole idea a lot more offensive if I thought that the cookie actually looked like an ear.

Does anyone else see an ear in that photo?

I'm looking forward to hearing from those of you who do!

Shalom!

Relaxing in Haifa

On Tuesday evening, while I was sitting in the clinic, storms came rolling into Haifa for the first time since we've been here.  The winds were so strong that the blinds on the interior of the windows were rattling.  I could sense that this type of weather pattern wasn't quite normal, as everyone on the staff would turn and stare at the window in worry when a burst would suddenly attempt to blow it open.

Needless to say, their worry was not much comfort to me.

When I had walked into the building, the sun was shining brightly without a cloud in sight.

Once the fur fashioned, smoky, nurse entered the room, the wind storm began, frightening her as the window shook furiously from the wind.

What had happened?  Was it an omen?  

(Don't think that the thought didn't go through my mind.)   

Perhaps my meteorologist friend, Ernest,  has an explanation, as I am totally unfamiliar with weather patterns in the Middle East.  What I do know is that the strong winds continue, bringing on and off rain with them. And we've seen some lightening in the evenings as well.

One just doesn't know what to expect when looking out the window.

Will it be hazy?

Will it be visible?

Isn't that crazy?  Believe me, after enjoying views every morning, I was certainly very surprised to see THIS out the window.

And then, there was Monday, the perfect view of our stay:

Earlier in the week I was watching the many ships in the Mediterranean, wondering just why they were there

I haven't quite figured out why they sit in the harbor.  Some move now and again but others don't.

And, today, there seem to be more of them.

Don't worry about those clouds.  Although they look  quite ominous,  they have already passed, dumping a lot of water on Haifa, and I see blue skies and sunshine rolling in.

Yesterday, I was kind of surprised to see a submarine partly arise from the water before slowly submerging.  It's lurking out there in the sea, somewhere, as I spotted it earlier in the week while eating lunch.

More than likely it is there to protect the port of Haifa.  One thing that is quite obvious here is that there is security everywhere.  Every hotel, store, bank, public building has a security guard that you must pass in order to enter the building.  This includes the Carmelit transport as well.  These guards, male and female,  carry wands, and have the right to ask you to open your bag for a check. 

They don't make small talk, but, on the other hand, they are not obnoxious.  They just matter-of-factly do their job.  I don't find it the least bit annoying, and I am quite happy that they are nearly everywhere.

As I sit here writing this while gazing out the window, I have a sudden realization:

That grassy hill that you see, is part of the Natural Reserve that has been designated by the Baha' i Gardens.  

Do you remember me mentioning that the Baha'i members are excited to know that the wild boar is repopulating in the reserve?

Perhaps if I watch closely, I'll spot a wild boar or two!

Or not.  I think that there must be more exciting adventures waiting for me than spotting boar.

Yesterday there were several breaks in the weather, and I was able to get out and about for a short walk.  I stayed relatively close to the hotel, since I never knew if the clouds would burst, and I didn't want to get caught in windy, rainy storm.

But, first on my list was to buy a new camera card.  You probably won't be too surprised to read that I have no more memory on the card in the camera.  So, I headed to a store nearby, bought a new one, and I was ready to go.

Just down the street, near the zoo, I was surprised to find this

The house looks nearly perfect…..except there is no roof.  And something tells me that with the construction of that high-rise so close, this house is not going to be standing for much longer.  It seems like such wasted beauty to me.

Walking along, I thought that I'd take some photos to give you an idea of what some of the streets look like here.

There are many apartment complexes, but an equal amount of beautiful family homes hat have outstanding views since they are constructed on the top of Mt. Carmel

As you can seem Spring is entering here in glory.

And, it may be hard to believe, but the streets can be so steep that even the Dan Panorama can disappear from view.

Yesterday was Marty's birthday, so when he returned from the office and finished his hour and a half teleconference call from the hotel room, we were finally free to grab some dinner.

We decided to go back to Voila!  We had such a fabulous "fondue for two"there the other night, being the only customers in the place, that we wanted to enjoy yet another meal there.

The place had quite a few customers, but plenty of room for more.  We were seated upstairs this time.

We really enjoyed the aura of this place.  

Unique paintings, gorgeous chandelier

unusual delectable food choices

all while entertaining French music is being played in the background.  Well,  actually, it is music that sounds like someone is singing with a strong French accent.  Words are in English. But extremely enjoyable!  What fun!

I mentioned that it was Marty's birthday, and the waitress came out with a dessert of warm dates decorated with a swizzler.

Now THAT was fun!

And, the dates were Fabulous!

Can't you tell?