Adventure on the NC500: Gairloch to Drumbeg

As I mentioned previously, Marty and I decided to wander a bit off the beaten track of the NC500 as we gallivant around this area of Scotland.  So, although we traveled less than 90 miles today, we certainly managed to squeeze a LOT of outstanding scenery.

We bid farewell to our B&B hosts, Robbie & Marion, and headed first to a little area called Mellon Uldrig which is located just west of Lairg.  Robbie had suggested stopping at a little beach on this peninsula to admire the views, so we decided to make a wee bit of a detour.

The only issue was that we really never found a given parking lot or spot to stop as suggested.  So, we turned around on the road, and working our way back, spotted what we thought was access to the beach.  We parked the car, made our way through the gate, and found ourselves in what we eventually realized was a private residence named "earth house".  (If you are the owners and are reading this, my sincere apologies.)   We snapped a couple photos, and quickly returned to the car to continue our journey. 

In the meantime, these are the daily views from "earth house".

Not too shabby!

We headed on to the Corrieshallcoh Gorge to check out the waterfall.  I had read that a suspension bridge spanned the gorge and that it had ben built in 1843 or thereabouts.  We found the parking lot, and began the trek down to the bridge.

The bridge itself, appeared to be quite sturdy, but I could not move myself to attempt crossing while taking a photo standing in the middle.  So, I relied on Marty to capture the perfect photo.

I did manage to just walk across without looking down, to get to the other side.  And, when I spotted a greyhound dog, fearful of attempting the crossing, I realized that I was far from unique in my fears.  The poor dog huddled while carefully slinking across with its side bruising the side of the bridge the entire way across.  At least I could just walk across the middle!

On the opposite side there was a trail that led to a viewing platform. Marty took a selfie, but I can't say that one can actually see the waterfall in the background.  But it was a brave attempt, for sure!

The reserve had a walking trail that led to a brand new information center that opened in March.  Along the way, there were other areas of beauty to enjoy.

The weather is unseasonably hot here, and we were both quite happy to get into the car and the comfort of AC after completing our brief hike. We traveled along a remote route to Lochinver.

The views were, once again, breathtaking.

and this entire route was single track with lay-bys.

We didn't have too many issues with passing cars, and soon we were in Lochinver.  We opted to go to the Lochinver Larder, as I had read about its recommendation while researching the NC 500.

The place is known for its hand made meat pies.

Although mine was not meat, but rather cauliflower and broccoli, I will attest to the fact that the pastry melted in my mouth!  Yum! 

The views of the loch from our outside table made the meal even more special. 

Fueled and ready to go, we hopped in the car and Marty made the drive to the Stoer Lighthouse.

Now, I must admit, this was the most remote road that we've traveled.  Even more so than yesterday's adventure.  Super thin single track road, although it appears that not many people chose to drive it, which was certainly in luck for us.

We eventually arrived at our destination:  Stoer Lighthouse.   What a magnificent structure to view, perched high on a cliff!

I had planned the trip with the intention to hike out along the coastal trail to see the stacks of Stoer.  Imagine my surprise when Marty suggested that we forgo the hike due to the heat!  I realize that it was a bit toasty, but really, it wasn't over 80 degrees!  He reconsidered and agreed that it would be worth the effort to make the hike, so we set off together.

The first thing that I would like to clarify here, is that although there is a sign at the base of the hill, with a marker pointing north, we could not find an actual "trail."  We started out at the marker, following what appeared to be mowed grass for a section. The view was stunning.

We could easily spot the OLD Man  of Stoer.

But after that, it was pretty much a free for all, with us attempting to find a path and finding ourselves in mud and squishy underground as we made our say along the coast.

And I'll admit, after some time of trudging, I was pretty hot, and hoping that it would be worth all of the effort that I was expending. 

Finally, the stack was at a distance!

We were both satisfied that we decided to stick with the adventure rather than turn around or scrap our plans.   But I will admit that the trek was quite challenging.

We decided to follow a younger couple who appeared to know what they were doing, for our journey back to the lighthouse parking lot.

The trail did involve climbing down stone steps along a cliff, then climbing similar steps up the adjacent cliff, but with my walking sticks, I was able to manage, albeit not without some difficulty.

Sticky and sweaty, it was such a pleasure to hop in the car and turn the AC on high as we ventured back over the single track lane to Drumbeg.

We soon learned that we would be sharing the road.

but had no issues finding the Drumbeg hotel.  To be quite frank, there really isn't much here.   Luckily, the hotel offers dinner to its guests, as we'd not have found an alternative anywhere nearby, that's for sure.

After our long hike, it was a delight to just kick back and relax a bit.  The hotel offers a lounge where Marty immediately felt at home.

We enjoyed a delicious dinner in the dining room, where celtic music was playing in the background while we enjoyed a scenic sunset from our table 

as well as some interesting decor surrounding us.

And, much to our surprise, the real thing showed up right outside the window!

How's that for a surprise!

This place is a bit quirky, but in a fun way.  I sat down on the bed and was a bit surprised to fall about 4 inches down into it.  Kind of reminds me of girl scout camp.

And, then there's the wall decor.

Nothing like feeling like you are in the woods, and you can tell that Marty enjoyed showing off his camo shorts that he packed for some reason.  

Entertainment at its best. 

Tomorrow we move on....if we can climb out of the bed!

I'll keep you posted.... 

Driving the NC500: Lochcarron to Gairloch

 Another beautiful day greeted us upon waking, 

and after a delicious and plentiful breakfast at our B&B, we set off on our NC500 adventure for the day. 

As I had mentioned in my previous blog, we had decided to explore this area by segments rather than driving on a particular route.   We had to retrace some of our travels from yesterday, but the morning view along Loch Maree was quite different with a mist hanging just above the water.  It certainly did make a stunning photo. 

As we were driving along, we began to encounter segments of road where it narrows to a single track, with a lay-by for passing every few hundred feet.  It was obvious that we were heading into the "meat" of the NC 500.  

We made a quick stop in the village which features quaint white houses lining the road opposite the loch.

Quite scenic, don't you think?

From here it was just a few miles to the beginning of the famed "Bealach na Ba" pass.  The word translates "Pass of the Cattle", and it was originally built in 1822 for the purpose of just that.  It has long since been a single track road that one can transverse in either direction.  It rises in elevation to well over 2000 feet, and many consider it to be a challenge to drive.  

But having conquered the Apache Trail in Arizona, as well as driving "The Struggles" in the Lake District, we felt no worries in our decision to drive this road and were thrilled to have such a beautiful day to enjoy the views.  

We turned onto the highway and began our slow ascent to the top, traveling from east to west. 

We found ourselves surrounded by some magnificent mountains along the way.

To be quite honest, the road in itself is not all that difficult to maneuver as long as one maintains a reasonable speed and keeps to hands on the wheel, as there are numerous hair pin curves along the drive. 

It is a single track road, which means that cars in both directions must share the single road.  So, one must be observant enough to watch for traffic coming from a distance, and look for the lay-by to tuck into in order for the opposite car to pass.  It really should be a simple process, right?  And, for the most part, it was, with the opposite vehicle respecting the road space, and drivers waiving a friendly hello as they pass. 

But then you occasionally get this: 

A camper van that is explicitly mentioned as not suitable on signs posted at either end of the pass. 

It's not all that clear here, but we are perched on the edge of the cliff, and of course you know who is on the cliff side (I didn't look down).  We are driving a small car and there was just enough room for that van to pass us on the road.  We had several similar instances, and I will admit that I was a bit annoyed. However, I was very grateful for the small car that we are driving, and can't even imagine what would happen if a camper van was going in both directions and they needed to pass each other!  That might certainly be a disaster!

Interestingly enough, most of the drivers that we encountered were on our ascent to the top.  The decent to the west went relatively smoothly and you can see the beauty that was the reward. 

Absolutely stunning, don't you think?

We headed to Applecross for a few quick photos, admiring the Isle of Skye in the distance.

Then we began the drive along the coast, but first we stopped to take a peek at the Abbot's stone that has stood in this churchyard since 801.  It originally marked the grave of Ruaraidh More MacAgon, the Abbot of Applecross.  The markings aren't real clear, but one can definitely see the imprint of a Celtic Cross on the marker. 

Our drive along the coast presented one awesome view after another.

And there were some other interesting diversions as well.

We stopped in Shieldaig where we enjoyed some treat's at Nanny's for a break.

That is called an Affogato, vanilla ice cream drenched in espresso.  What a treat that was!

The village is quaint and a beauty to explore. 

We chatted with a local who suggested that we take a wee walk behind the school, up a hill for some better views.

And she was right!  They were magnificent.

Moving along, we headed along the coast and stopped to take this photo that shows the tiny village of Torridan just at the base of that huge series of mountains. 

Believe it or not, the road took us around the lock directly to that tiny village.  Little white houses were once again nestled between a loch and an impressive mountain.  Quite the scene, for sure.

By now, we had come nearly full circle and were headed back to Gairloch, where we began the day.  

Along the way, we made a quick stop to Victoria Falls, named as such because Queen Victoria had once visited there. 

The picture really doesn't do it justice.  It really is a very long and lovely waterfall within easy walking distance from the road.  

Dinner was at the Old Inn just on the edge of Gairloch. Take a peek at the lovely bridge and you will spy Marty attempting to scout out some fish in the water flowing beneath it. 

The only fish he spotted for the day was on his dinner plate as he ordered the local special for the day:  Lemon Sole.

Day two exploring the North Coast 500 has come to an end.  We will be leaving this lovely B&B here in Gairloch and heading north.  It looks like another glorious day just might await us.

I'll be sure to keep you posted!