Tuesday, September 30, 2014

Destination: Helensburgh

After enjoying a bowl of lip-smacking porridge enhanced with a splash of whiskey and a dollop of cream, it was time to bid farewell to Sarah, our entertaining host and begin our travels to Helensburgh.

This relatively new city (pronounced Helens-burr)  is located northwest of Glasgow which we hope to visit tomorrow by train.

It appears that the "blue sky" whiskey trick suggested by our Talisker Tour guide doesn't work when added to porridge, as we once again found ourselves under grey skies and lots of rain and drizzle, although we were spared torrential rain, thank goodness!

The drive was lovely, traveling along lochs through the woods, and we once again found ourselves on the Bonny Bonny Shores of Loch Lomond which didn't look all that much clearer than the last time we traveled this route.



Perhaps the author of the song enjoyed rain?

Once in Helensburgh, we decided to check into our B&B before heading towards the Hill House on foot.  The planning was perfect, as we arrived at 1:00 and the Hill House didn't open until 1:30.



The check-in procedure was rather interesting. First, there is a sign on the door instructing visitors to ring two door bells simultaneously, which I did.  Ishbel, one of the owners, opened the door, shook my hand, and led us out of the door, around to the front of the house, up a staircase, through a door, and to our room.  She handed me paperwork to fill out and announced that payment must be made before she would give us the keys.

When I was finished filling out the forms, I was to bring them back to the original entrance, and ring both doorbells simultaneously, again, and she would answer, take my payment, and give me the keys.

I wondered if I this was some sort of test.

The room, itself is beautiful, quite large, with a nice en-suite bath and another room that has a sofa, fridge and extra television.  Not that we need all of these amenities, but it sure adds to the comfort.

I did as I was told, reading through the back of the green card.

I had to sign a release form, stating that if any damages occurred, then I’d be responsible for them.  


If I ruin a mattress and tell them, there will be a £50 fee. However, if I ruin a mattress and don’t tell them, there will be a £250 fee.

Could someone please inform me just how one ruins a mattress in the first place?

Smoking is strictly prohibited (a wonderful rule, if you ask me), and if we are found smoking in the room, the police will be called.  That seemed a tad worrisome, but since I don't smoke, I signed the form, hoping that I didn't leave a mark anywhere on anything that might suggest some sort of penalty fee.

I dutifully walked out the door, down the stairs, and around to the other entrance while Marty parked the car in the lot, being certain to back in the car, as there were signs with strict instructions.  

Ishbel greeted me at the door, and explained to me how the wi-fi would work.  Her husband would enter my info into the computer and set up my own private network that would be my first name.  The password would be my full name, all little letters…no spaces.

Ok…..does this sound a little bizarre to you?

We weren't going to be sticking around to test the wireless anytime soon anyway, so I paid the required amount, took the keys, and we put our luggage into the room prior to heading up to the Hill house as planned.

I couldn't help but notice some umbrellas next to the door, neatly placed in a holder, but behind them hung yet another bold sign stating that patrons were welcome to borrow an umbrella, but if it was not returned, there would be a £20 fee.

Now, I wonder, with 4 rooms of patrons, how do they know who borrowed that umbrella?  These rules were beginning to worry me.  There is a Dell laptop on the desk for patron use, if we choose.

Really?  Do you think I'd dare even turning that thing on?  Who knows what would happen and what the fee would be when it did?

Luckily, as you can see, the wireless code worked just fine with my little computer.  Whew!
(although I will admit that my patience is being severely tested as the connection keeps waning in and out, making this blog take about 3 times longer than it should to write.)

We made our way up to the Hill house, passing by some beautiful homes along the way.



We wasted no time finding the tea room.  Good planning on our part, because we ended up ordering the last 2 fruit scones, along with a pot of tea, even though the place had only opened 20 minutes earlier. 

 I wish that I could tell you that they were melt-in-your-mouth delectable, but such was not the case.  But that’s OK too.  At least our tummies weren't growling anymore.

Now it was time to tour the house.  I'll admit that I was completely surprised by what we found inside what looks to be a Baronial Mansion from the outside. 

In the distance you can see the River Clyde.


Built in 1902, this house was owned by Walter Blackie, a well known Glasgow  publisher.  The architect was Charles Rennie Mackintosh, and this house is considered to be his finest domestic creation.

As the paperwork states, "The Hill House is a visually arresting mix of Arts and Crafts, Art Noeveau, Scottish Baronial and Japonisme architecture and design."

The only Baronial aspect that I could see was the outside construction.  The rest of the interior was very  unique, and in some ways, reminded me of my Uncle Paul's house which he constructed based on Frank Lloyd Wright's plans.

No photos were permitted inside, but I did find some on the National Trust Website who received full credit for them.

A lot of glass was used throughout the house, and each one of those little squares that you see is actually a translucent pink glass.  This was Mrs. Blackie's room.  Make note of the curved ceiling over the bed.

Photo credit: National Trust of Scotland
The Dining Room:

Photo credit: National Trust of Scotland
Hallway

Photo credit: National Trust of Scotland

Fireplace in the drawing room.  Note the mural over the fireplace, made by Margaret MacDonald, wife of  Charles Mackintosh.

Photo credit: National Trust of Scotland

Mackintosh made nearly everything in the house, including furniture.  His wife made many of the textiles.   The house has been restored to look almost exactly as it did in 1904 when Walter Blackie moved his family inside.

I mentioned the small squares of glass or decorations throughout the house.  Pink was used on doors and in rooms representing women, and purple was used for the men.
Green was used to signify servant's quarters or areas were servants would be working, as in the kitchen.

The interior would be considered very modern by today's standards.  It must have really been an unusual creation in the year 1904!  Truly an amazing work of art.

Outside, the gardens add to the beauty of the grounds.

Here you see the next door neighbor behind the wall of Hydrangeas that have just finished blooming.


There were brussel sprouts


and a hot house filled with blooming beauty.


Beans hanging on the vine


and apples vines against a wall!


Ripe and ready for picking!


Upon leaving the house, we noticed that even the street lights surrounding this house were unusual, fitting in with the theme of the house.


Walking back down into town was far easier than climbing the hill, and the view was pretty spectacular.



We spotted a lovely park about a block away from our B&B, so we decided to take a quick stroll through it.  We hadn't gone far when we noticed these gates beckoning our entrance to the World Wars memorial.



Two sides were devoted to local men who had died in World War II.  And the front was dedicated to the World War I soldiers who had perished.


Once again, I couldn't help but get choked up reading the inscription:
Let those who come after
see to
that their names are not
forgotten.


The grounds are just beginning to show the changing of the colors of the leaves, enhancing the green all around. 


With black clouds rolling in, we picked up the pace, but managed to see this lovely church in the square

 as well as a Celtic Cross

and the clock tower along the river, aglow in the evening.


We had a great dinner at a Mediterranean Tapas Bar along the river front, and then came back to relax in our awesome room.

Here's hoping I don't break the mattress!  (Or anything else…for that matter!)



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