Another beautiful day greeted us upon waking,
and after a delicious and plentiful breakfast at our B&B, we set off on our NC500 adventure for the day.
As I had mentioned in my previous blog, we had decided to explore this area by segments rather than driving on a particular route. We had to retrace some of our travels from yesterday, but the morning view along Loch Maree was quite different with a mist hanging just above the water. It certainly did make a stunning photo.
As we were driving along, we began to encounter segments of road where it narrows to a single track, with a lay-by for passing every few hundred feet. It was obvious that we were heading into the "meat" of the NC 500.
We made a quick stop in the village which features quaint white houses lining the road opposite the loch.
Quite scenic, don't you think?
From here it was just a few miles to the beginning of the famed "Bealach na Ba" pass. The word translates "Pass of the Cattle", and it was originally built in 1822 for the purpose of just that. It has long since been a single track road that one can transverse in either direction. It rises in elevation to well over 2000 feet, and many consider it to be a challenge to drive.
But having conquered the Apache Trail in Arizona, as well as driving "The Struggles" in the Lake District, we felt no worries in our decision to drive this road and were thrilled to have such a beautiful day to enjoy the views.
We turned onto the highway and began our slow ascent to the top, traveling from east to west.
We found ourselves surrounded by some magnificent mountains along the way.
To be quite honest, the road in itself is not all that difficult to maneuver as long as one maintains a reasonable speed and keeps to hands on the wheel, as there are numerous hair pin curves along the drive.
It is a single track road, which means that cars in both directions must share the single road. So, one must be observant enough to watch for traffic coming from a distance, and look for the lay-by to tuck into in order for the opposite car to pass. It really should be a simple process, right? And, for the most part, it was, with the opposite vehicle respecting the road space, and drivers waiving a friendly hello as they pass.
But then you occasionally get this:
A camper van that is explicitly mentioned as not suitable on signs posted at either end of the pass.
It's not all that clear here, but we are perched on the edge of the cliff, and of course you know who is on the cliff side (I didn't look down). We are driving a small car and there was just enough room for that van to pass us on the road. We had several similar instances, and I will admit that I was a bit annoyed. However, I was very grateful for the small car that we are driving, and can't even imagine what would happen if a camper van was going in both directions and they needed to pass each other! That might certainly be a disaster!
Interestingly enough, most of the drivers that we encountered were on our ascent to the top. The decent to the west went relatively smoothly and you can see the beauty that was the reward.
Absolutely stunning, don't you think?
We headed to Applecross for a few quick photos, admiring the Isle of Skye in the distance.
Then we began the drive along the coast, but first we stopped to take a peek at the Abbot's stone that has stood in this churchyard since 801. It originally marked the grave of Ruaraidh More MacAgon, the Abbot of Applecross. The markings aren't real clear, but one can definitely see the imprint of a Celtic Cross on the marker.
Our drive along the coast presented one awesome view after another.
And there were some other interesting diversions as well.
We stopped in Shieldaig where we enjoyed some treat's at Nanny's for a break.
That is called an Affogato, vanilla ice cream drenched in espresso. What a treat that was!
The village is quaint and a beauty to explore.
We chatted with a local who suggested that we take a wee walk behind the school, up a hill for some better views.
And she was right! They were magnificent.
Moving along, we headed along the coast and stopped to take this photo that shows the tiny village of Torridan just at the base of that huge series of mountains.
Believe it or not, the road took us around the lock directly to that tiny village. Little white houses were once again nestled between a loch and an impressive mountain. Quite the scene, for sure.
By now, we had come nearly full circle and were headed back to Gairloch, where we began the day.
Along the way, we made a quick stop to Victoria Falls, named as such because Queen Victoria had once visited there.
The picture really doesn't do it justice. It really is a very long and lovely waterfall within easy walking distance from the road.
Dinner was at the Old Inn just on the edge of Gairloch. Take a peek at the lovely bridge and you will spy Marty attempting to scout out some fish in the water flowing beneath it.
The only fish he spotted for the day was on his dinner plate as he ordered the local special for the day: Lemon Sole.
Day two exploring the North Coast 500 has come to an end. We will be leaving this lovely B&B here in Gairloch and heading north. It looks like another glorious day just might await us.
I'll be sure to keep you posted!
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