Walking the Via Dolorosa

When Marty and I arrived in Jerusalem on Friday, we did a quick gallivanting-run through the Old City, including the Church of the Holy Sepulcher, but we had both decided that we wanted to walk the Via Dolorosa, from start to finish, just for the experience, which we chose to do the following day.

I was a bit curious as to how this walk would go, considering this was my first experience with annoying Arabs harping at me as I walked, which is something I had NEVER expected along this holy trail.  Also, there was the added aggravation of the tour groups…..always having a schedule to meet….pushing….shoving….hogging up the views, only to leave and have another group take their place before we could sneak a glimpse.

We had some crazy notion that we would get up early, hike into Jerusalem, and beat out these spoilers. But, alas, our hopes were foiled, as it took us much longer to circle the walls in order to enter through the Lion's Gate, which is the entrance that Jesus would have taken on his way from the Palace of Caiaphas.

It has since dawned on me, that my well meaning husband, the Master of Direction, actually took us 3/4 of the way around the old city walls when we could have easily maneuvered 1/4 of the way to enter in the same place.  But why bring that up now?   Our delayed entrance resulted in some awesome experiences, of which I had previously blogged in respect to one melodic African tour group.  How great was that?

So, here we were, entering the Lion's Gate. 

The stations of the cross along the street are marked with a semicircular stone pattern on the road, helping the pilgrim to find the spot.  And, most of the street stations have a church that is associated with that particular station, something of which I had been totally unaware.

I invite you to join me as we make the walk:  

I:  Jesus is Condemned to Death:

Near the first station stands the Church of the Flagellation:

There are three remarkable stained glass windows in the sanctuary.  The one on the left illustrates Pontius Pilate washing his hands from the sin.

the flogging of Jesus in the middle

and the freeing of Barrabbas on the right.

Note the crown of thorns on the interior ceiling, over the center window 

Here is a view of the lower part of the sanctuary.

Breathtakingly beautiful, and we were blessed to actually have a few moments of silence as we briefly sat in the church alone.

II:  Jesus Carries His Cross:

Very near the Church of the Flaggellation is the Church of the Condemnation.  This is believed to be the site where Jesus took up his cross after He was sentenced.  Large Roman pavement stones were found here, and it is believed that they were Pilates judgement seat for the condemnation of Christ.

The sanctuary sets the scene vividly.

On the left is a statue of Jesus, after being flogged and crowned with thorns.

To the right is a statue of Jesus carrying the cross.

On the wall opposite the door, a stained glass window is set into the wall.

Once again, we were able to sit in silence to reflect upon this station.

III:  Jesus Falls the First Time.

At this spot, the Armenian Catholic Church entrance is located right on the Via Dolorosa, unlike the previous two that we found in a courtyard. You can see the black disc with the Roman Numeral III signifying the 3rd station.

The inside of this church was captivating.

The combination of the physical sculpture of Jesus with the painted angels in the background made me feel as if I was truly in a holy place.

I feel the same emotion each time I look at the photo.

I can't explain exactly what makes this combination so powerful in my mind, but the artist has truly captured something special.

Another fresco depicts Jesus carrying His cross for all mankind.

IV:  Jesus meets His mother.

At this spot there is an Armenican Church called Our Lady of the Spasm.

Walking into the Sanctuary a beautiful white chapel stands in the background, with a fresco of Mary holding Jesus as an Infant while an angel looks on.

Gazing upon this painting caused me to feel a sudden pang of sadness.  Here was Mary, full of joy, holding her newborn son, oblivious of what was in store for both of them.  

I felt my heart become heavy as I gazed upon the site.

Nearby was a fresco representing the station:

This beautiful painting, which appeared to be transparent, was hanging over the entrance door.  I am sorry that I cannot offer an explanation, but its beauty seemed worth posting.

Walking down the stairs, to the right of the sanctuary, we found ourselves at the end of a long hallway, blocked by a large stand of sand holding dozens of lit candles ablaze.   

I zoomed in with my camera for a closer shot of the statue in the distance.

Jesus was comforting his mother.

Outside of this church, back on the Via Dolorosa, there is a segment of stone that has been determined to date back to the time of Jesus.  He would have stepped on these along the way.

V:  Simon of Cyrene Helps Jesus Carry His Cross

As you can see, there are two men standing right in front of the doorway that recognizes this station.  They found it quite amusing to be in the photo, and they were determined that no one would be able to get a photo of the spot without them in it.  Marty tells me that when he was here in January,  he had the same issue.  So, perhaps these guys think that they are famous.  Personally, I found it to be quite sacrilegious.  We waited quite some time for them to move, and they just stood there, chuckling, because they found it all to be quite humorous.  I suppose that we can liken them to the crowd that heckled Jesus as he walked along.

To the right of the doorway, in the corner, you can see a special stone marker.

It is believed that this is an imprint of the hand of Jesus. 

VI:  Veronica Wipes the Face of Jesus.

This station is honored in the Chapel of the Holy Face.

The interior is a small, cave like structure.  Quiet and tranquil.  Perfect for a haven from the busy street for a few minutes reflection.

At this point, the Via Dolorosa becomes quite busy, working its way through narrow streets with vendors on either side.  I can't help but wonder how I was lucky enough to get this photo when it appears that no one is around.

Through most of the walk we were jostling our way through scads of tourists.  But, if you look closely, you can see the gradual rise in the steps as we walk along. 

VII:  Jesus Falls the Second Time.

The doors were locked at the chapel near this station, but upon knocking,  a man slowly opened the door, peering out at us.  When I asked if we could enter, at first he shook his head "no", but when he saw that we were alone, he invited us inside to the chapel.    

We didn't stay long…..just long enough to complete our personal prayer as part of our Via Dolorosa walk.

VIII:  Jesus Meets the Woman of Jerusalem

This station was off the beaten path, and it is the one that I spoke of in a previous blog when an Arab face appeared out of nowhere, between our two heads, asking if we needed help with directions. 

It appears that Jesus ventured off the path in order to greet the women, because this station was not in line with the others. 

The stone with a monogram marks the spot.  It translates Jesus Christ Conquers.

IX:  Jesus Falls a Third Time

 At this point we had to backtrack a bit, make a turn, and climb a couple of long stone staircases until we came to the next station.  In the distance you can see the cross atop one of the cupolas of the Church of the Holy Sepulcher.

Under the arch, you can spot two crosses in the distance, leaning against the wall, marking the spot of this station.

There was a coptic church just passed the archway, but it was filled to the brim with religious pilgrims, so we decided to head into the courtyard on the left.

At this point, the walkway is relatively flat as we were standing outside the Church of the Holy Sepulcher.

X:  Jesus is Stripped of His Clothes.

The courtyard was humming with crowds of people, and in the corner, up a set of stairs, stands a chapel with a gated door.  

The building was closed due to renovation,  making it unavailable for viewing. so we made our way into the Church of the Holy Sepulcher.

The Church is located on the site of Golgotha, the place of Jesus' Crucifixion.  

It might seem a bit inconceivable to think that a mountain would be inside a church.  But,  in walking along the Via Dolorosa, we had ascended several series of steps, and the road had been slightly inclining between those spots.

Once inside the church, we turned to the right, and began an ascent up extremely steep stone steps.  It was as if we were climbing a mountain. 

It was quite a challenge making our way up those stones.  Once at the top, we found ourselves in a crowd of people.  Several tour groups were huddled together, squeezed in as they attempted to pass through this part of the church.

XI:  Jesus is Nailed to the Cross.

The mosaic on the wall says it all.

It was very difficult to get a good photo of the mosaic, with the darkness in the room, and the crowds of people smashed together.  I had to reach over my head to take this.

Marty and I found ourselves in very tight quarters, being elbowed and pushed as we tried to make our way into the next room.

People appeared to be velcroed together, moving as one, permitting no one to pass, and new tour guides continued to enter the room, insistent that their group be allowed to go through, leaving us literally stagnant in one spot, unable to move.  It was extremely claustrophobic, and as I stood there, in front of this mosaic,  I couldn't help but be reminded of the suffocation that Jesus suffered as he was dying on the cross.

Even if we had wanted to leave, we were stuck, as far from the entrance, or the exit, as possible.

Marty looked at me, frustrated.  I shrugged my shoulders.  What could we do?

Then, I was aware of a very tall, large man, to my left,  attempting to help an elderly gentleman get through the crowds, next to his wife.  They were all part of one tour group, and the elder gentleman risked getting lost in the back of the crowd.

We were getting jostled and bumped, but when I realized what was happening, I leaned forward toward Marty, who was in front of me, and said to him,  "Marty, can you let this man get in front of you so that he can be with his wife?" Marty immediately turned, and helped the man work his way in front, to the woman who was obviously quite relieved to have been reunited with her husband.

The tall man, who was literally a head taller than anyone in the room,  had his arms outstretched as if we were protecting the group from harm, and he looked at me in relief, and said, "Thank you so very much ma'am." 

I responded, "You're quite welcome, and I surely hope that you would do the same for me." 

Within minutes, this man, who was the tail end of a large tour group, was helping to lead us, along with the group, to the spot of Jesus Crucifixion.  

XII:  Jesus Dies on the Cross

And, suddenly, it was as if time stood still. Even though the room had been filled to capacity, we now found ourselves able to get close to the spot, take photos, and even say a prayer, albeit a short one.

This very same man came to our rescue several times as we made our way through the church, insisting that we pass through before him while he held the crowd at bay behind him.

If you recall my change of heart regarding tour groups from my blog the other day, it was not only the musical group that affected my opinion.  It was this one man's genuine concern for us, and his inclusion of us under his wing as protector, that caused me to rethink my prejudices.  Here we were at the pinnacle of our journey along the Via Dolorosa, and he was like Simone the Cyrene, coming out of nowhere, to offer us protection and to help us along. 

You may think this is all quite sappy, but I believe that events like this happen for a purpose.  This one man's welcome made all the difference in what could have been a very frustrating and disappointing experience. 

You can see that we are no worse the wear after making our way out of the room.

From this spot, looking down, there is a large flat stone in the middle of the room.

We had to make our way down the steep steps to get to this level, and it appeared nearly impossible as no one would let us onto the stairway.  Just when we wondered what we should do, our friendly Tall Protector was there, motioning for us to go down the stairs before him, commenting to someone that we  were part of his group.  How cool was that?

XIII:  Jesus is taken down from the cross.

This is called the stone of unction (annointing), where Jesus was laid after He was taken down from the cross.  I am sorry that I did not get a better close up photo.  

It did not seem blurry at the time.

Above this stone are hanging lamps, each donated by one of the denominations. 

The frescoes on the wall behind this stone tell the story.

We stood at this spot twice:  once on Friday shortly after our arrival, and again on Saturday,  as we neared the end of the Via Dolorosa.

People have asked me privately if I felt anything unusual while visiting these holy places.  And, I have already shared with you my experience in the Garden of Gethsemane as well as the Chapel of Spasms where I was overcome with emotion upon gazing at the Virgin with her infant in her lap,  so innocent and so joyful, completely unaware of the agony she would endure when her son was a yet a young adult.

There was the chapel with the angels, watching over Jesus as he fell the first time.  Emotional beyond words.

But here, at this spot, I felt overwhelming sadness as I found myself being drawn to the stone.  It happened on Friday, when we first arrived, and I had not realized what I was looking at.  Marty wanted to move on, and I found my feet planted in the ground while I stared at the stone, suddenly realizing what had transpired on this spot.

And on Saturday, once again, I felt that same extreme sadness as I reached out to touch the stone, and it was difficult to pull myself away.

Some may say that this cannot possibly be the same stone, and who am I to question that?

However, I can tell you with all honesty that I was NOT looking for some kind of religious experience.  It just happened.  Despite the crowds and the noise and the commotion, there was something in this very spot that affected my very being.  It was as if time stood still, once again, but this time, I felt only sorrow when I gazed upon the stone.

When I walked away, the emotion and sadness were gone.  It really was an amazing experience.

XIV:  Jesus is Laid in the Tomb.

Within the Church of the Holy Sepulcher is a large structure that supposedly holds the tomb of Jesus.

The line for its entrance wrapped around the structure, in several rows, every time we passed by.  I did not feel the least bit compelled to stand for hours in order to crouch down to walk through the confined space within.  It just wasn't calling my name, and Lord knows….I'd already had enough of that for one day.

So, we finished off the day, fighting off the tour groups, while we explored the rest of this amazing church.

But, that's a story for another day.

For now, I must end this journey.

I hope that you enjoyed walking the Via Dolorosa with me.

It certainly is an experience that I consider  as Once in a Lifetime.

Don't you agree?

Sacred Sites in Jerusalem

Located on top of Mt. Zion, just outside the walls of Jerusalem, is a place referred to as Coenaculum, translated  “dining room”, the location of the Last Supper.

Tradition tells us that Jesus celebrated the Passover with his apostles in Jerusalem, and we celebrate his last meal on Holy Thursday.   

As you can well imagine, Coenaculum was on our list of important places to visit while in Jerusalem. 

Finding the stairway that led to the upper room  wasn’t all that easy, though.  It is located on the top floor over the tomb of King David.  

No worries here!    We were in Jerusalem….where help is always within arm's reach, even if you don't need it….for just a small price.

We had just visited the tomb of David where protocol demands that all heads, male or female, must be covered in order to enter the room.  If you recall from my earlier blog, women and men have separate entrances to see David's tomb.  I merely pulled my scarf over my head to act as a covering.  Marty, on the other hand, was wearing a knit cap on his head which apparently didn't cut it as a head covering.  At least that is what he told me the Arab at the door told him. 

In order to enter the tomb, he needed to wear a head covering that was approved by the Arab standing at the door.  (Are you surprised by this?)

For just 2 shekels, Marty was able to “borrow” a cap from the Arab.   (I shudder to think who was wearing it before he popped it on his head).  After a quick peek in the tomb, upon returning the cap, the Arab was excited to lead us personally to the hidden steps that led to the upper room.

Now I ask, how lucky was that?

Although the present interior is from the Crusader Church built on this site, archeological evidence on the lower floor revealed an early Roman level that supports the possibility that this was indeed the location of the room of the Last Supper.

The room itself, over time, has been a Byzantine Church, a Crusader Church , and a mosque.

The mosque influence is reflected in these gorgeous windows, built during the Ottoman empire

  and  a prayer nitch,  dedicated to King David,  is carved into one of the walls.

 This room is also believed to be the spot where the Holy Spirit came down on the apostles during the first Pentecost.

But on this day,  the most fascinating aspect of the room was this cat

 who continued to stay fast asleep on this bench, despite the coming and going of tourists through the place.  He must have been pretty comfy to not even twitch at all of the commotion going on in the room. 

When we walked out of the door and down the stairs, I heard someone telling their family,  "the entrance has to be here somewhere!"   I have to admit, it made me feel good to know that we weren't alone regarding our difficulty in finding this place.  I wonder if the Arab was able to help them?

If we step back in time to Jesus' Passover Supper and the subsequent events that followed,  the location of this upper room fits right in with the geography of the area.  He would merely have walked with his disciples a short distance, down a hill

through a valley and into the Garden of Gethsemane.

Marty and I made the walk ourselves.  As we got closer to the garden entrance, we could see the Arabs lurking in the street, eager for the opportunity to sell us a rosary or a scarf, or help us whichever way possible…...for a price, of course. 

This is where our past experience with tour groups came to our advantage.   We weren't far from the entrance when a tour bus pulled up in front of the nearby church.

Now, how lucky was that?

The group disembarked from the bus, we tagged onto the end, and within a few minutes, we were through the entrance….Arab free!    Success!  

We were in the Garden of Gethsemane surrounded by ancient olive trees.

We made our way past the tour and wandered over to a large rock, near the garden, nestled in a corner near the church.

I found myself drawn to this rock, and as I got closer, could make out the carving.

It was a small sculpture of Jesus, praying in the garden, cut into this stone.  There was no explanation as to who carved it, or why it was in this particular stone.  It was located within short distance of the olive trees in the garden.  

Turning around, I could easily imagine the apostles falling asleep under those nearby trees. 

Mark 14: 32: "And they came to a place which was named Gethsemane: and he saith to his disciples, Sit ye here, while I shall pray".

In fact, as I stood at this spot, I had a strong sensation that I was in the place where Jesus would have prayed.  I felt lured to the spot, and an unusual calmness came over me.  I was perfectly content to just sit and take in my surroundings.  It was certainly an unexpected reaction on my part.   Considering how many religious sites that we had visited, I had not anticipated that this particular site would be any different than the others.  But there was definitely something calling to me here.

Marty and I sat for quite awhile on the adjacent stone bench, comfortably enjoying the solitude on this glorious day.  

Suddenly, I realized that the tour groups weren't flocking in this direction.

How very odd.  This was contrary to every tour experience that we had been privy to while in Jerusalem.

Let me assure you that I’m not complaining…….I was happy to have the solitude to reflect upon Jesus’  Agony in the garden.  This was an opportunity that would never come again and I wanted to soak up the feeling so that it wouldn't be forgotten.

It wasn't long before we decided that we should move on, so we worked our way through the tour groups to the entrance of the Church of the Agony.

The front of the church features a magnificent mosaic on the front.

I'm not certain how clearly you can see the detail, but if you are able to look at my flickr photos, it will be much clearer. Jesus is in the middle, weeping over the fate of Jerusalem.  Above him are two Greek Letters that stand for the Alpha and the Omega.  Revelation 1:8

On the left side, a man holds a tablet with the inscription Ignoratio, meaning Ignorance, symbolizing that the people of Jerusalem were ignorant of their fate.

Walking into the church, my eyes were immediately drawn to the huge mosaic featuring Jesus praying on a rock, flanked by Olive trees.

Here's a closeup of the mosaic on the wall.

At the foot of the altar, there is a large, flat rock on the floor.  Pilgrims were kneeling, bending over and touching the rock in prayer.  Suddenly, I understood why the tours were not being guided near the spot outside that had captured my attention.  

This rock near the altar has been designated as the spot where it is believed that Jesus prayed.  

Obviously, historians must have some evidence to substantiate this claim.  And I don't dare to suggest that I possess some sort of ability to predict whether or not Jesus did pray on this spot.

But, having just experienced the intense attraction that I had outside near the garden, and absolutely no reaction at this spot, I will dare to say that I am skeptical.  

Let me just clarify here that I did not go into this pilgrimage with the intent of having some intense religious experience.  As a matter of fact, I found it very difficult in most places to actually reflect upon the events as Jesus would have lived, primarily due to the masses and the annoying Arabs around every corner.

I can only convey my emotions, and I can quite honestly tell you that when I sat outside near the rock with the carving, I experienced an indescribable emotion…..sorrow….yet comfort.  Sadness…but joy.  I've never had such an intense feeling before.  And it was certainly NOT happening inside that church.  

But the rock certainly seemed to offer a significant religious experience to the many pilgrims who ventured to pray there.  And that in itself, is worth noting.  

Continuing through the church, there is a mosaic on the left side of the altar that features Jesus' betrayal by Judas.

On the right , the mosaic features Peter cutting off the Roman Soldier’s ear

This Church of the Agony is also recognized as the Church of All Nations since many countries contributed to its building.  In the ceiling are 12 capes, each dedicated to one of the nations that contributed to its construction.

The seals of the various countries are located in the corners of these capes. Here you can see the emblem for the United States among the Olive tree branches. 

Really, one could stand there for quite some time looking up at the beauty of the ceiling, except a crook in the neck would be inevitable.

The outside of the Basilica  is impressive in size

and its setting is perfect….at the foot of the Mount of Olives, among gardens filled with Olive Trees.

Truly a memorable and unforgettable experience.  

Looking past the tour busses and the crowds of people wearing colored hats and white sneakers, this really is the unspoiled land from the time of Jesus.  There are no skyscrapers or modern buildings to divert one's attention.  

This is holy ground, and Marty and I had the privilege of standing on it.  Certainly a memory not soon forgotten.

Walking back out of the gardens, it was easy to spot St. Peter-in-Gallicantu Church on Mt. Zion,  once the Palace of Caiaphas where Jesus would have been taken after his arrest.

It was from here that Jesus would be taken into Jerusalem for his final walk to Calvary.