Wednesday, September 21, 2022

Gallivanting on the Isle of Arran

 This morning began as a glorious day, so we headed out to Brodick Castle, a National Trust of Scotland Site.  As I had mentioned in previous blogs, we are members of the Royal Oak Society, that partners with the National Trust, as well as the NTS, which makes touring these sites so easy.  Just show them the card, and enter.  

Occasionally, we come across someone unfamiliar with the Royal Oak, and today was one of those days.  The NTS staff member at the entrance was surprised to see the card,  said "Ooh...I've never seen one THESE before", and actually took Marty's card to show the other woman in the hut.   We could her exclaim, "This is SO exciting!", which actually made our day.  It's kind of fun being the one off the beaten track.

The castle was pretty amazing. There's been a stronghold of some sort on this site since the 13th century.  But this particular structure was used more as a hunting lodge when it was donated to the National Trust in 1957. The history was quite fascinating.

It came into the possession of the Hamiltons in the late 1400's and was rebuilt in 1510.  But it ownership passed back and forth over the years, and was even used as an army barracks in 1652. 

By the mid 1800's, it was becoming popular for people to visit Arran from the mainland, and the 10th Duke of Hamilton took a keen interest in the castle.  His wife, Susan Beckford, came into a huge inheritance, and the Duke was then able to update the castle to more comfortable living quarters for his son, eventually the 11th Duke, and wife Prince Maria of Baden. 

Maria was a German princess and was accustomed to living in something more luxurious than what the original Brodick castle offered, so she pleaded relentlessly with her new father-in-law to make changes to the house. He finally had no choice but to relent and he commissioned James Gillepsie to make the necessary upgrades that would be satisfactory to Maria. 

As a result, the original structure was nearly doubled in size, and it is this refurbished house that still stands to this day. This graphic gives an idea of the before and after of the actual building. 


We entered the castle through the 1840 front door, and found ourselves in a magnificent hall, featuring furnishings from these original owners.




We learned that there were no less than 87 Stag heads hanging on the wall:  86 were slain in Scotland, with the last being from a hunt in Hungary.  It seemed that they were everywhere we looked in the entrance way, and up the stairwell!

Off the main entrance, there was a hallway that had an excellent interpretation board that offered a view into the family.  It was really cleverly done, with nicknames given to the family to help one piece the story together. 
his son

and wife

their son

and the final heiress.

Mary inherited the estate,  and she donated the house and estate to the National Trust of Scotland upon her death in 1957 so that her children would not have to face paying the death taxes upon her passing.

Because the family came from money, there were many "luxury" items on display in glass cases.  These were possessions acquired by the family in the 1700s and the history of how they were made was carefully detailed. 

Here are just a few items that I have selected to share:

The bright blue spoon is made from a rare and expensive stone called Lapis.



These items were made of the finest filigree.

and there were fine porcelain pieces included as well. 

From here, we headed up the stairs, past the many stag heads adorning the walls, and entered the Duke's bedroom.  
That room adjoined Princess Maria's bedroom where Queen Victoria's mother stayed on a visit, with Maria giving the woman her own set of rooms to use during her stay. 

You can see by the photos that the castle is filled with furnishings that have been preserved since the mid 1850s when the house would have been furnished by Maria with such opulence.  












The kitchen is the original as well.  The Duchess of Montrose had her own modern kitchen added to the house in a separate location, leaving this room in the same condition as it would have been in the late 1800s.  It's one of the few original kitchens in the National Trust collection.



But before I leave the house, let me offer you this "cheat sheet" on the art of Fan Flirtations.

I probably would have failed the test if I'd have had to remember these important hand motions. Although I might have gotten "kiss me" correct, as it seems the simplest of the group. What do you think?

One of the interesting features of the castle is its amazing gardens.  Since the weather on the isle of Arran is rather temperate, there are many species of more "tropical" plants growing on the grounds.  It really was quite interesting to see the array of unusual plants.

There was beauty just about everywhere the eye could see. 






And, of course, the beauty of the thistle, although most had already seen their best days. 

The Silver Garden Trail is designed to reflect the 12th Duke of Hamilton's silver collection.  This is one of the set of sculptures.  

As you can see, one of the reflecting trees is just beginning to turn the colors of fall.
The grounds feature many walking paths that lead to an ice house, summer house, and a squirrel hide, which today, featured many birds flitting around, but no red squirrels to be found. 

We did learn that the Duchess of Montrose actually introduced red squirrels to the isle in 1954.  When we asked just how she managed to get them onto the island, we were told that it was by postal service.  Can you believe that?  I certainly wouldn't have wanted to be the mail carrier!

We took one last camera shot with the castle in the background, and you can see just how glorious the day was.

On our way out of the estate, we spotted a few Highland Cows busily munching in the field.

By this time, it was about 1:30 pm, and I proposed that we walk the Glen Rosa, as I had read that it offered some outstanding views, but wasn't too taxing of a hike. 
 
Well, I might argue that last point, as we found ourselves climbing up a very rocky hill, with a steep drop off the side of a cliff to our right, not far from the beginning of the hike.  Marty took a photo of me standing on the bridge that spans the gorge with a waterfall behind me.  


I'll admit that the waterfall is a bit in the distance, but it did look pretty awesome in person. 

Our travels continued up the hill even higher, then a descent through a grassy field.  When the path split, we turned to the right, instead of the left, to continue on the trail.  We found ourselves in a thick forest, with pine needles coating the ground, but there were spots where we had to cross running water, but that was easily maneuvered.  

Coming out of the forest, we passed through a gate into a glen, where the mountains opened up before us. 
There were about 2 and a half miles of narrow trails


with some requiring a little leap

and, actually, some involving a bit longer leap.  But I had walking sticks to help me maneuver my way along. 
We finally reached a bridge that crossed the water and offered a beautiful waterfall in the distance. 
The mountains were behind us offering an incredible view. 

and a second bridge stood right in front of the Glen Rosa.
If you look closely, you will see that we are standing in front of a waterfall that starts at the very top of the hill behind us. 

It was such a relief to reach this point, and no one was happier than I when the path back widened and maintained a relatively flat terrain in comparison to what we had just maneuvered. 

Once we reached civilization, I took a picture of this scene just to remember the beauty of the environs through which we had just climbed. 
It took us a little over 3 hours to complete the hike, and we were lucky to have finished when we did, as the rain came blowing in just about the time we reached our hotel.  Those beautiful mountains that I featured in yesterday's blog were no longer visible by the time we had dinner, as the mist had overtaken them.

It appears that rain is in the forecast tomorrow as well.  We were supposed to hike the Fairy Glen in the morning, but right now, I'm perfectly happy to find a substitute.  Actually, I think my feet are begging me to do just that!

But I'll be sure to keep you posted!








Tuesday, September 20, 2022

Exploring the Isle of Arran

 After some amazing vegan banana pancakes at the Dell-Mar B&B in Moffat, 


we bid our hostess, Susan, farewell

and set our sights for Ardrossan, to take the ferry to Brodick on the Isle of Arran.

I had prebooked several weeks ago, and made certain to leave quite a bit of time to allow for any issues with traffic.  The information at hand showed the time of the last calling (2:50 PM) , and what time the ship departed, (3:20 PM), but nowhere did it say when we should begin to queue up.   

We figured that we had a couple of hours to explore, so we parked the car and decided to take a stroll around the village of Ardrossan.  I was impressed with some of the unusual architecture of the buildings in the main part of town.



and was thoroughly surprised when we turned the corner and looked in the distance. 

The houses stand in a crescent, making the scene a bit more dramatic from this vantage point.  Of course, there was the standard life saving device....just in case someone needed it.

a war memorial, which is typical of most villages

and interesting houses lining the crescent.





Walking back towards town, the scene is equally beautiful. 

and I found the ship on top of the church's steeple to be entertaining. 

Once again, we were blessed with amazing weather upon which to enjoy all of this beauty. 
Here you can see the Isle of Arran in the distance.

We passed this unique building on our way to the ferry, but had no idea what it was. It certainly did stand out in the distance from atop a hill that we had climbed.



The Castle Ardrossan was atop the hill, with views of the sea as well as the land.  As you can see, it is only ruins at this point in time, having been destroyed by Oliver Cromwell.


And an obelisk stood upon the hill as well, although I can't tell you why it is there.


By now, we figured it would be in our best interest to head back down to the ferry.



As I mentioned previously, we had no idea exactly what time we should get in line for the ferry, so I looked at the time line for departures, and although one was scheduled to depart shortly, I had presumed that the cut off time would be half an hour before departure, similar to our schedule. 

So, we went to the booth to hand in our tickets, and the woman in charge looked at our tickets and said, "Darlin', we can put you on this one that is sailing earlier."   So there we had it.  Not only was I "Darlin'", which I found to be quite endearing, but we were on a ferry scheduled to arrive an hour and a half earlier than planned!

That was certainly a pleasant surprise. 

And, before we knew it, we were checked into our hotel,


admiring this lovely view from the room.

as well as this picturesque view from the front.

We decided that since we had extra time on our hands, that we should get out and explore, so we headed out the door, and began walking up the street. 


Once again, there were amazing houses situated along the road, each having an amazing view of Holy Island in the distance.



And, much to our surprise, we stumbled upon some sea life that was unique, and somewhat amusing.

This fella gave us quite a chuckle as he rocked back and forth after finally managing to maneuver his way onto that raft. 


These creatures are in the area known as the Lamlash Bay No Take Zone, where it is prohibited to do any type of fishing at all.   But, lucky for Marty, a short distance from the zone is a perfectly acceptable section for attempting to cast a line into the sea.   And he might just try his hand at that tomorrow morning. 

In the meantime, we enjoyed a lovely dinner in the hotel, in a cozy spot by the window.

And once again, I ordered dessert.

Cranachan Cheesecake.  Don't judge me....I shared with Marty.  

Plus....I'm on holiday.  Calories don't count....right?  

Well, I certainly do hope that's the case, because you should have seen the welcome treats awaiting us in our room when we arrived!   Little packages of Scottish Tablet, all tied up with a pretty bow.

Certainly a welcome surprise!