Sunday, September 17, 2023

Gallivanting for Pictish Stones

 Although the title does signify part of today's adventures,  our search for stones were actually at the end of the day, on the way home from exploring some fascinating historical buildings.

But, I'll jump ahead and show you what we found just in case your interest in castles might be waning. I know that it might seem to get old following the castle trail, but we personally find each one to offer some interesting insight to Scottish History and haven't been bored with one yet! 

But here's what we found today on the "Pictish" trail. 

The first is actually a stone right outside the Leith Hall Gardens.

A few miles away, in a field with sheep grazing in the distance, stands the Picardy Stone.

In order to access viewing, one must climb up and over the fence into the field.  


Just be careful not to touch any of the wires, as you might just get a shock! And, luckily, we didn't have to encounter any furry friends on our quest. 

Here's an idea of the size.
You can easily spot all of the ornate carvings in the stone. 

Venturing just a little while down yet another tiny road, one comes across the Maiden Stone. This one was easy access with a little parking lot off the road. No sheep involved.


A mirror and comb can be clearly seen on the bottom of this stone.  The other suggested inscriptions are a bit more difficult for me to decipher. 
Here is the back:


And, finally, nestled in a small park among houses in a regular neighborhood, stands the Brandsbutt Stone.


Pretty amazing that something over 1400 years old can still be so well preserved. Kudos to Historic Scotland for emphasizing the importance of protecting these treasures for future viewing.  There were several more in the area, but we decided that we'd had enough exploring for now.

Since I jumped ahead in my enthusiasm, let's go back to the events of the day.

First stop was to Fyvie Castle. This amazing structure has been standing here since the early 1200's.
As typical with many of these older structures, there is an original building with subsequent additions added on over time.  This one has some interesting statutory perched upon the turret rooftops. 




Each of the round sections is topped with a different one. 

There was a link between this castle and Haddo house which we toured yesterday. If you recall the inscription in the front stones that featured the name Anne Gordon, this is where she hailed from, and it is only 5 miles in distance from Haddo house.  The same portrait that hung in Haddo was also featured here, but the colors are much more brilliant. 
The house had several famous residents over time some of whom include Robert the Bruce's sister, Margaret; Charles I, who was brought to the house as a child for safety during the plague.  His godfather was Alexander Seton, who had lived in the castle at that time. 

It's easy to imagine the castle's environment in that time period from some of the items in the original part of the castle.


The steps are the widest of any castle in Scotland.  They are also shallow in depth, and it was noted that the family would race horses up these steps into the dining room.


Ceilings featured various crests of arms ornately decorated.


Alexander Seton's godmother was Mary Queen of Scots and her portrait hangs in the corner of this room.  The family were strong Jacobites and this room was planned with a "priest's corner" hidden in the paneling, for easy exit when necessary. 

There were many paintings by Raeburn hanging on the walls.  This is Charles Gordon painted in 1790.


In 1885, Alexander Forbes-Leith purchased the castle.  He was married to an American woman born in Missouri and made his fortune in the steel industry.  His wife's portrait is displayed within the ornate fireplace at the one end of the dining hall. 



The castle was brimming with many items collected by the family over the years.  

Room after room featured ornate ceilings and preserved treasures. 


A music room was added to the castle by the Leith family.  Their portraits hang above the large fireplace.  Tapestries which had been purchased by Forbes Leith specifically for the castle,  adorn the walls. They add to the acoustic touch to the room.

Looking up, there were so many beautiful crests that caught my eye. 


Finally,  I want to share two portraits.  Aren't these ladies exquisite?  






The gardens associated with the castle are beautifully laid out, and are not so much for display as for an aesthetic presentation of practical plants for produce.








The garden was brimming with green beans, purple beans, squash, rhubarb, turnips, beets, onions and chives, not to mention the apples bursting on the trees.  
And, it appears that the staff might be slacking on checking the growth of those zucchinis! 

We spotted some even larger ones still hanging on the vines.  No squash bugs here to spoil growth! 

Moving on, we stopped to visit Leith Hall. (No connection with Forbes Leith of Fyvie Castle.)  Built in the 1600's, it had originally been a fraction of the present day size.  

The turrets had been added on at a much later date. 

The house had a fascinating history regarding its inhabitants, and it is difficult to recall many of the details.  But one thing of note is that the same family lived within the walls for 350 years until it was bequeathed to the National Trust.  

One of the owners of the estate, was keen on "recycling".  One room had wall and ceiling paneling that came from church pews that he had purchased.  Had it not been pointed out, I'm not sure that I'd have noticed.  The fireplace here, was made using bedposts on the sides.  Pretty clever, don't you think? 

There were dozens and dozens of embroideries hanging on the walls, all stitched by one of the ladies of the house who found herself quite bored living in this part of the country. 

This would have been her stitching table.

I was amazed at how well preserved they were. 

She must have spent all of her days stitching, and we were told that she eventually lost her sight due to the low light conditions.  But she certainly did manage to complete an unbelievable amount of projects which was obvious when walking through hallways that featured her many works. 

The last laird of the house was living in Australia when he inherited.  He returned to Scotland to fulfill his duty as heir, and married a woman from Ireland.  She brought her fireplace with her, and it was added to the music room that stands in Leith Hall at present day. 


Shortly after she left Ireland, with the mantlepiece, the castle where she had lived burned down, so the only item remaining stands now here at Leith Hall. 

Finally, one of the residents had worked as a spy during the Napoleonic wars, had been captured, but hardly treated as a prisoner as he was befriended by his captives.  After his release, he was gifted this original scarf belonging to Napoleon himself, and it is among the collection of items in the house. 


The tour lasted well over 90 minutes, as we heard stories of how the monies had been squandered by an 18 year old inheritor, then saved by a Jacobite uncle who had managed to flee from the battle of Culloden.  He was 7 foot 2 in height, yet managed to hide in plain sight of the British by using the ploy of having scarlet fever.  He lay in a bed, and put a cap on his head, cap on his feet, and covers over the rest of him.  The servants told the British soldiers to be wary because there were two sisters in bed with the disease, and they wouldn't want to contract it.  They peeked in, saw what they presumed were two heads in on opposite sides of the bed, and left without question.  This giant of a man managed to escape capture for 6 years at which point he was officially pardoned, and returned to Leith.

How's that for a great story? 

We returned to our B&B in Cruden Bay, and took a quick walk out to Slains Castle, which is a ruins that stands along the North Sea, just about half a mile from where we are staying. 

It looms near the rocky cliffs offering some stunning views of the cliffs nearby.




It is said that it was the inspiration behind the novel, Dracula, written by Bram Stoker, who used to holiday here at Cruden Bay in the Summer. 

And, at that, I'll call it a day!

Hope you enjoyed today's adventures! 























Friday, September 15, 2023

Exploring Haddo House & The Scottish Lighthouse Center

 Today was certainly a mixed adventure, as we began our day heading south to Haddo house after checking out of our B&B in Portsoy.   We found ourself traveling along narrow country roads with a surprise or two along the way.

And, finally, we were entering the long drive to the house.


We immediately headed to the visitor center so that we could secure the 11:00 AM tour of the house.  In the end, there were only 13 people, total, on the tour, which as far better than the 35 at Brodie Castle earlier in the week!

Our tour guide was Charlie, and she was an enthusiastic and informative guide who passed on a LOT of information.  Once again, photos were not permitted of the inside rooms, but you can be guaranteed that the interior was brimming with fine art and unusual items.

The architect who designed the house was William Adam.  If the name sounds familiar, it's because it's the same designer as yesterday's Duff house.  This is one of Adam's earlier ventures, and Haddo house brought fame to his name, which led to future homeowners requesting his talents in designing for them.  

It was interesting looking at Haddo House in comparison to Duff house, as the original plans of Duff included many of the features that Haddo encompassed, such as two side wings to house servants as well as a stable. 

But what was extremely fascinating to me, was the inscription in the stone in the front:

Look carefully, and you will see:  WILLIAM EARL OF ABERDEEN

MDCCXXXII ANNE GORDON COUNTESS OF ABERDEEN


Anne was the daughter of the 2nd Duke of Gordon.  She was a young maiden when she married Lord Haddo, a widower in his fifties.  Her father insisted that a new residence be built for his daughter upon marrying the Lord, and so, it appears that the house was built a few years into their marriage which had been in 1729.  With the inscription on the front for all to see, there is no doubt. 

Charlie gave the history of the family via portraits that continue to hang on the walls throughout the house.   One of the more interesting stories involved a visit from Queen Victoria and Prince Albert.  Victoria sent notice to Lord Haddo, the 4th earl of Aberdeen,  that she would be visiting.  He was prime minister at the time.  He had new furniture built specifically for the Queen, which still stands in the house today.

She arrived with a welcoming gift:  a plaster likeness of her head, which continues to stand on a pedestal in the front hall.  It is said that she was not impressed with Haddo hall, and she stayed less than 24 hours prior to departure. 

The room is decorated to the time period of the queen's visit. And the walls are filled with numerous sketches of Victoria over the years. 

A generation later, the fifth earl granted his wife an exorbitant amount of money to upgrade the house to her standards in the late 1800's.  She went through every penny, and then some.  So, much of the house reflects the upgrades that she had made to it while she was living there. 

She and her husband, John, were both philanthropists, and they gave most of their money away to various charities, making it very difficult for future generations to be able to upkeep the grandiose house.  So, the house was gifted to the National Trust, although the estate continues to be owned by the family.

The house includes a lovely chapel attached to the side.  You can see the stained glass windows from the back of the house. 
The gardens around the back were stunning! So many beautiful flowers to enhance the grounds.













As you can see, much care has gone into maintaining the grounds to the highest standards. 

These two information boards contain copies of the paintings of the 5th earl and his wife, Ishmel.  You can't see the originals,  but you can view their likeness here. 


He became the Marquess of Aberdeen.  His grandson, the 3rd Marquess of Aberdeen, inherited the property but had no children.  During world War II, he opened the house as a maternity hospital for anyone in need.  The only requirements were that the woman needed to be at least 7 months pregnant, and she was permitted to live in the house for just 3 months after the child was born.

1,250 babies were born at Haddo house during that time, and the 3rd Marquess gave each baby a silver six pence prior to leaving.  He loved to spend time with each one of the babies after their birth. 

To this day, any one of those children who were born in Haddo House, are admitted to take the tour at no cost, and they've had several make the trip to see the place of their birth.

Don't you just love a happy story?

From here we headed northeast to Fraserburgh, to visit the Scottish Lighthouse Museum.


What makes this so fascinating is that the lighthouse was added to the  Kinnard Head Castle keep that originally stood at the point.  When first constructed, it stood on the roof of the keep, but the roof began to show signs of stress.  So Robert Stevenson designed a lighthouse tower that was constructed in the corner of the keep.

Very clever, don't you think?
These buildings were originally part of the castle grounds, but were coverted to housing for the families of the men who cared for the lighthouse.

Our tour involved a detailed explanation of the history, and we were taken inside to climb the steps to the top.

The views were pretty spectacular.

 Here you see the replacement lighthouse, built in the late 1990's, that on a lighting system rather than oil lamps. 




We got a close up look at the actual lens
and here's the view looking down.

Marty took that photo as I didn't dare look! 

Near the coast stands the obsolete foghorn that would have been used in times of thick fog or snow.  The pumps that powered the horn are stored in one of the outbuildings from the original keep.


The tour of the lighthouse was just one facet of the museum.  There were rooms filled with just about everything you might want to know about lighthouses, with the focus on those in close proximity to Fraserburgh.






One could spend hours there absorbing all of that information.  In fact, I'm pretty sure we did!

It was late afternoon by now, so we headed down the coastal route to our B&B in Cruden Bay.  It's called Outlander Boutique B&B, but, to my knowledge, it has no connection to the series by the same name.  It's just a small place, located on a quiet street in a tiny village. Perfect!

We took a little walk to explore the village before dinner.




And dinner was just next door at the pub.  You just can't beat that for convenience!

Until tomorrow....